Two is better than one. On May 4th and 5th, the debut of Italian Contemporary Chefs, the format dedicated to great Italian chefs in the kitchen of Identità Expo every Monday and Tuesday afternoon (here the complete programme), is indeed dedicated to four elegant hands, those of Christian and Manuel Costardi, the good brothers from Cinzia in Vercelli.
«Being at Identità Expo is beautiful, a unique experience – they say – And it’s so exciting to arrive after Massimo Bottura, in the only starred restaurant in the fair… We have participated in many events but this time it’s truly thrilling: the world looks at Milan, our potential guests come from all over, we want to make a good impression».
The heterogeneous clientele will be one of the elements influencing the menu (the price is 75 euros, including wines. For reservations write to expo@magentabureau.it or call +39.02.62012701). «First of all, we wanted to be simple, recognisable. We wanted dishes with a well-defined identity and few ingredients, as taught by masters such as Gualtiero Marchesi or Fulvio Pierangelini».
Carnaroli Expo limited edition "taglio sartoriale", beer reduction and powdered coffee
Simplicity does not mean mediocrity or banality, quite the contrary: if any, it means a clean palate, excellent aromas, the full respect and enhancement of the best raw materials, chosen also based on allergies and food taboos linked with religions or simply different life styles.
Moreover, they will be fun, tasty dishes: not conceptual but immediate in their deliciousness. Like the “Essential” aubergine, «which is a vegetable I’ve always loved – says Christian Costardi, the “savoury part” in the couple – It is complete: sweet, bitter, meaty, structured, it is very versatile. Very often, however, it is badly cooked, overcooked or burnt, or overcome by other flavours». The Costardi brothers, instead, use it delicately, they only scald it so its sugars are caramelised, and then vacuum cook it in oil at 80°C in the roner, «it almost acquires the texture of a steak». They then add tomato and a little pesto, to give colour and a few more taste nuances. We tasted it, it’s delicious.
It’s then the turn of risotto, as obvious for the
Costardi brothers. It will be served in a special can, as in the past, but this time it will be creamed with a cream of
Grana Padano 27 mesi, beer reduction and then enriched with some powdered coffee. Sapid and willing to please. The main dish is the «love encounter of a salted codfish that went on holiday in Tropea» and there, of course, met the splendid local red onions. Hence the fish is cooked in confit cooking with oil and just rosemary and garlic and then placed on a cold onion cream: thermic and taste shock, in an embrace of savoury and sweet:
Baccalà a Tropea.
Desserts represent Manuel Costardi’s kingdom. It will be a delicious jar with three tastings recalling the Italian flag: basil meringue, raspberry jelly, and in between the brothers’ white panna cotta, with a silky texture, pure milk cooked without thickeners, except for a pinch of agar agar.