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Identità 2023, the complete programme at the Auditorium: 42 super guests will talk about the revolution

Dalla "A" di Adrià, Aduriz, Atala e Abou Zaki alla "W" di Faith Willinger: è definitivo il cartellone della sala grande al congresso milanese, che vedrà protagonisti i relatori internazionali e i top italiani e svilupperà il tema centrale della kermesse

Some of the speakers who will talk in the Auditori

Some of the speakers who will talk in the Auditorium at the 18th edition of Identità Milano, from the 28th to 30th of January



There will be 42 speakers, all at the highest level, in the Auditorium alone at Identità Milano 2023. They will represent six different countries and, above all, they are the perfect interpreters of the conference's central theme, 'Ladies and gentlemen, the revolution is served'. These revolutionary spirits will meet in Milan to illustrate their approach to change (also) in the kitchen. On top of the names we revealed in the preview, many others have been added: TV host Fabio Fazio, for example, who at Identità Talk will dialogue with Corrado Assenza on the collaboration they have recently launched; or multi-starred chef Enrico Bartolini, with Michele Cobuzzi; and again Alberto Gipponi and the Cerea brothers, who will present 'The casoncello revolution is served' as part of a special space celebrating Bergamo and Brescia - Italian Capitals of Culture 2023.

But there are many novelties. Here is the complete programme.


Morning -
In the Auditorium, we start strong with the theme of Identità Milano 2023, namely 'Ladies and gentlemen, the revolution is served' (for more on the theme, read here or go to the end of this article). We will start at 10.30 a.m. with the customary welcome by Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni, founders of Identità Golose. Another classic appointment will follow this: the introduction to the theme of the congress, full of verve & culture, by Davide Rampello, artistic director and curator. At 10.55 a.m., the first lecture, or rather the first talk in the new Identità Talk format: a big name, American Harold McGee, food scientist and celebrated author of the best seller On food and cooking, will speak about Osmocosm, the universe of odours. After him, at 11.25 a.m., another icon: Andoni Luis Aduriz, chef-patron of Mugaritz in Errenteria in Spain. Back to Italy for the 11.15 a.m. lecture: Luca Travaglini, co-founder of Planet Farms, with Enrico and Roberto Cerea of Da Vittorio in Brusaporto (Bergamo), will tell us about a new way of conceiving vegetable growing. Before the lunch break, two more international and 'stellar' guests: David Gelb and Brian McGinn, respectively creator & executive producer the former, executive producer & director the latter, also from Chef's Table. With them, four stars from their TV series, Corrado Assenza, Dario Cecchini, Gabriele Bonci and Franco Pepe, and US journalist Faith Willinger, the 'whistle blower' of Italian cuisine in the States.

Afternoon - We start again at 3.00 p.m. with an Italian bet in which Paolo Marchi believes very much, the possible faces of a young Italian cuisine that looks ahead: Richard Abou Zaki and Pierpaolo Ferracuti of Retroscena di Porto San Giorgio (Fermo). At 3.40 p.m., space will be given to Bergamo and Brescia - Italian Capitals of Culture 2023; the lesson titled 'The casoncello revolution is served' will feature Alberto Gipponi of Dina in Gussago, and again the Cerea brothers. At 4.20 p.m., we will return to broaden our vision with a special speaker, or rather a female speaker: Fatmata Binta, founder of the Fulani Kitchen Foundation in Ghana and winner of the Basque Culinary World Prize 2022. From Africa to South America: at 5 p.m., a giant, Brazilian Alex Atala from the D.O.M. in São Paulo, Brazil, will take the stage. With him, the first day's work in the Auditorium will come to a close.


Avocado, kiwi, and coriander is the signature dish of Identità Milano 2023. Its authors are Carlo Cracco and Luca Sacchi (photo by Brambilla-Serrani). To find out more, read here

Avocado, kiwi, and coriander is the signature dish of Identità Milano 2023. Its authors are Carlo Cracco and Luca Sacchi (photo by Brambilla-Serrani). To find out more, read here

Morning -
After the welcome address by Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni, at 10.40 a.m., the stage is set for Carlo Cracco and Luca Sacchi of restaurant Cracco in Milan. At 11.20, the first international guest of the day: Angel Leòn, chef-patron at Aponiente in Cadiz, Andalusia. At noon there will be a duet speaking: Canadian Jessica Rosval, the very talented chef of the Casa Maria Luigia in Modena, and Errico Recanati, of the Andreina in Loreto: they will talk to us about The Fire Revolution. At 12.40, drum roll: the eagerly awaited moment when Massimo Bottura will take the stage. With him also David Gelb and Brian McGinn of Chef's Table.

Afternoon - Other female faces in the afternoon will take centre stage in the Auditorium of Identità Milano 2023: first Antonia Klugmann of L'Argine a Vencò in Dolegna del Collio (Gorizia), at 3.00 p.m. About 40 minutes later, the spotlight will focus on Colombian Leonor Espinosa, chef-patron of restaurant Leo in Bogotá and World's 50 Best Female Chefs 2022. At 4.20 p.m., it will be back to Italy with a new appointment with Identità Talk, themed 'Our starred revolution' with Andrea Aprea of restaurant Andrea Aprea in Milan, Riccardo Monco, Alessandro Della Tommasina and Alessandro Tomberli of Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, Federico Ceretto patron of Piazza Duomo in Alba and Norbert Niederkofler of St.Hubertus in Val Badia. We will close the day, from 5.15 pm, with world pastry and chocolate champion Davide Comaschi.


Morning – The opening of the last day's work, as always, is entrusted to the initial greetings of Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni at 10.30 am. This will be followed by a lecture by Moreno Cedroni and Luca Abbadir of La Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigallia (Ancona). At 11.20 a.m., we will fly to Spain with Paco Morales of Noor in Córdoba. At noon with Identità Talk, we will remain in the Mediterranean area, with a must for Identità, the lesson by Corrado Assenza, the master of Caffè Sicilia in Noto (Syracuse), with him a well-known TV host, Fabio Fazio. Together they have revitalised Lavoratti, as we have written here. This will be followed by a talk by Italy's most starred chef, Enrico Bartolini, with his right-hand man at Anima in Milan, Michele Cobuzzi.

Afternoon - After the lunch break, grand finale. At 3.00 pm, the stage will be set for Niko Romito of Casadonna in Castel di Sangro (L'Aquila). At 3.40 pm, a new sweet moment with Andrea Tortora of AT Pâtissier. We close the works in the Auditorium, from 4.20 pm, with the great Albert Adrià of Barcelona's Enigma.

Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni, founders of Identità Golose

Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni, founders of Identità Golose

We would also like to remind you that the 2023 version of Identità Milano will be very different from the previous ones, completely renewed also in form and manner; after all, the theme of the year is 'Ladies and gentlemen, the revolution is served', so, of course, we had to revolutionise ourselves too. As Paolo Marchi, founder with Claudio Ceroni of the event and its curator, explained here: 'Issues such as sustainability, both economic and environmental, and attention to employees' working conditions have been central to every sector of society for several years. But first, the pandemic, and then the war unleashed by Russia, shook the catering and hospitality world to its roots with a force that was impossible to imagine. Everything that has happened in the last three years, and which is still far from over, forces us to think in a completely new way, to question what has been built up until now. Nothing will be the same as before the autumn-winter of 2019/20, hence the theme Ladies and gentlemen, the revolution is served. And if someone hasn’t realised this yet, it is time for them to open their eyes and not to be overwhelmed by the facts. Yes, because in life, some moments have the destructive force of a tsunami, and against which we can do nothing to oppose ourselves immediately. (...) Identità Milano is returning to carry out its mission of narrating change and innovation fully. The 2023 edition, from the 28th to 30th of January, from Saturday to Monday, marks a return to more logical dates for exhibitors, speakers, the public and ourselves. Let’s all meet at MiCo, the congress centre in Via Gattamelata in Milan, to measure ourselves against the revolution, present and future. Keeping in mind that we will never stop searching for quality, wherever it may be. Let’s not let ourselves be conditioned by circumstances, commonplaces, traditions'.


Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso

IG2023: ladies and gentlemen, the revolution has been served


Identità Golose

This article is curated by Identità Golose, the publication that organises the international fine dining congress, publishes website and the online Guida Identità Golose, on top of curating many other events in Italy and abroad

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