Beniamino Nespor ed Eugenio Roncoroni

 Credits Brambilla-Serrani

 Credits Brambilla-Serrani

Al Mercato

via Sant'Eufemia, 16
Milano
+39 02 8723 7167

One should sign them in the Milanese registry of common law couples: in fact, to avoid any misunderstanding, one is married to Oda, the other is engaged to Cecilia. But their sweethearts have a hard time, if their partners spend 18 hours a day together, in a work partnership dedicated to food – and what food!

Beniamino Nespor and Eugenio Roncoroni are the odd couple of the Italian restaurant scene; they’re the Lemmon-Matthau of world stoves, with Milanese headquarters; the Fruttero and Lucentini of the flavours of half the globe, arriving in the shade of Milan’s Duomo in the shape of haute cuisine. They went to middle school together, then left for different yet parallel journeys which have shaped their inclinations. After meeting again amidst the Milanese fog, here came the choice to translate their biography into a cuisine style that was unique in town, in fact, in Italy: pure internationality for gastro-nomad fanatics, a “high” reinterpretation of street food with little Italy, lots of USA and the East. At Al Mercato, this is the name of the two-year old restaurant, you certainly can’t get bored.

After all, theirs seems a life without provincial blinkers, right from the premises: Roncoroni (to recognise him, he’s the tattooed one), born in 1983 of Milanese father and Californian mother, flew to the Golden State for work reasons and spent three and a half years there, using the long wave of Alice Waters. Nespor, the blonde one, born in 1982, has no stars and stripes in his blood but has spent half his life in the States, not counting his experience at Berasategui.

Today, the duet works marvellously and dishes out a high quality crossover of delicious foods that follow two essential rules: «Passion for the East, and attention to American trends». Not something for Alberto Sordi, in other words. Their symbiosis is total, starting from the conception of the dishes: half each, then an all comprising confrontation. There’s a double soul that finds a plastic representation even in the structure of Al Mercato (14 seats in the restaurant, and as many in the burger bar, among the in-view stoves). This double-approach will soon find further proof with the opening of an American bar in front of Bocconi university: original fusion cocktails, noodles, gourmand hot dogs and much more. Not to loose their team spirit, they’ll work via video call.
 

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Roncoroni spent many years in the USA, with Janine Falvo, Angelo Garro and Michael Tusk. The return to Italy, branded Four Seasons, Sadler and Grand Hotel et de Milan represented the necessary headway before launching into his new adventure with Nespor, who has mostly work experience in the Old Continent, in Milan, at Livet e Sadler, in Euskadi at Martin Berasategui, and finally his Milanese return at Don Carlos

by

Carlo Passera

journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief