crediti: Brambilla - Serrani
viale Traiano 85
The place is always the same, a nice beach surrounded by sand hills a few km from Rome. The same place where over 50 years ago grandpa Gianfranco welcomed families on a day trip by the sea to his trattoria, offering wine, bread and some cured meat. The pleasure of hospitality is the same as his grandfather’s but the approach to cooking is radically different. Today, on the same beach, one can find the restaurant of Gianfranco Pascucci – born in 1970, self-taught chef – and his wife Vanessa, a cuisine against the tide, compared to what offered locally. A place which could have seated over one hundred people but Gianfranco chose to reduce the number, opting for a more refined offer. Fish has the main role and is strictly local. Indeed at Pascucci al Porticciolo you’ll never find farmed or imported fish. The cooking is elegant and contemporary, the result of influences he collected while travelling around the world. As in his dish Ravioli Umami, Japanese-style dashi broth prepared with anchovy fishbone, ravioli filled with monkfish liver and herbs from the sand hills. Even the use of fishbone and liver is not made by chance because Gianfranco is a real master in giving value to all the parts of the ingredients, including the less noble ones, as with the spaghetti with tuna stew, in which the rich sauce is prepared with red tuna cheeks and jaws. The choice of fish is not only dictated by the catch, but also by profound seafood knowledge and attention to the use of species that are not overexploited as with the Amberjack ceviche, the Bonito tartare or the Bluefish with its prey. In his aromatic bouquet one can find sand hill herbs, which he’s committed in preserving together with the Wwf from the erosion and destruction of their habitat. He defines himself his cooking as made of instinct, but it’s in fact the result of a great knowledge of raw materials and techniques, sensitivity to sustainability and passion for his profession.
Environmental scientist and sustainable cooking expert, she's the author of blog Ecocucina on D di Repubblica and of 5 books including “Tutto fa brodo”, "Autoproduzione in cucina" and "Cucinare in lavastoviglie"
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