via Sbrisi, 2
Polesine Parmense (Parma)
Massimo Spigaroli celebrated half a century a few years ago. Together with his brother Luciano, he’s the owner of a fantastic artisanal reality dedicated to his majesty the pig, namely Antica Corte Pallavicina in Polesine Parmense (Parma). Since 2010 this is also a new, sparkling restaurant devoted to the cause of freshwater fish. Massimo is also the president of Consorzio del culatello di Zibello since the birth of this institution. Re-launching this cold cut and obtaining the Dop certificate have been, perhaps, his greatest successes. In fact, all his work to retrieve old breeds of pigs, such as the Nero di Parma, has been equally important. Spigaroli is a worldwide authority when it comes to pigs, but he’s also a skilled breeder of farmyard animals, such as geese.
However, we shouldn’t forget that, in fact, he was born a chef: he studied at the Hotel management school in Salsomaggiore, and at the age of 16 he was already asserting himself with the dishes he created. After a few years spent in the kitchens of big hotels, he was already a star, one of those chefs who even end up on television. And at 22 he was teaching at his school in Salsomaggiore. You lose count of his successes and results starting from Cavallino Bianco, the restaurant now sided by the above mentioned one, which has been open for longer, giving an interpretation of the great tradition of Parma.
Great cold cuts from the past, fish from the Po river, ice-cream. Massimo’s art is based on these elements and, on top of spending a lot of time cooking, he personally monitors the preparation of strolghino, fiocco and mariola cold cuts. To a certain extent, Spigaroli has also been the creator of the recovery of the Mora romagnola, another almost extinct, yet delicious breed. In this case, however, his intervention was seasoned by a strong attention for social issues, as the breeding project took place at San Patrignano’s, a rehab community for drug addicts that has an excellent structure where the black pigs are protagonists. What Spigaroli says is taken as gospel, and his words have the fragrance of culatello.
Samuele Amadori è un giornalista romagnolo. 31 anni, vive a Bologna e lavora per la Rai. Per anni l’enogastronomia è stata il suo mestiere, ora è tornato al primo amore della cronaca. Ma la passione per il buon cibo non è evaporata, e continua a esplorare il territorio alla ricerca di grandi tavole. Emilia Romagna, Umbria e Inghilterra le sue zone di caccia preferite
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Alain Ducasse, to the right, with Xavier Alberti, president of les Collectionneurs, and Carole Pourchet, general manager
Varvara, two generations at work at Varvara - fratelli di carne. Dad Antonio with his sons (left to right) Michele, Vincenzo and Alessandro
A souvenir photo on the stage of Teatro Regio di Parma, for the new stars in the 2017 edition, 62nd, of the Michelin Italia guide. In the middle, behind the global director Michael Ellis, there are tri-starred Heinz Beck, Annie Feolde and Nadia Santini. Enrico Bartolini, star performer of the day, is third from the left. Four stars for him thanks to three brand new restaurants.