Saint Tropez Saint Tropez

Some cult tourist destinations express their best at the beginning and at the end of the summer, when they are still people and traveller-friendly. Not touristy, that is. This is why we wanted to go on a trip to iconic Saint-Tropez in April, to see what’s new, among new openings and myths that resist over time.

Among the most recent and most deserving openings, the new Hotel de Paris, at the entrance of the village, can certainly not go unnoticed. A new luxury hotel (this will be its second season), right in the centre, between the port and place de Lices. The setting is ultra-modern and elegant - details make the difference. Inside there’s a restaurant, Le Suffren Café, with a menu designed by the very famous George Blanc (three Michelin stars) and created by chef Philippe Guérin. The place is charming and the menu follows high standards. We tried it at noon, when the chef offers an attractive menu for 38 euros, which includes three courses, a glass of wine, water and coffee. A chance we highly recommend as not to be missed. It will be hard to forget the Veal fillet with parmesan and sage gnocchi. The sauce had the perfect texture and the meat was cooked impeccably.

Moving a little further, in the famous Saint Tropez hotel Byblos, there’s another new entry worth keeping an eye on, that is to say Alain Ducasse’s Rivea. This restaurant was born over the ashes of the mythical Spoon, also owned by Monsieur Ducasse, which has seated, at its tables, the world’s jet-set, and which the great entrepreneur and chef was brave enough to change. Renovated from scratch one year ago, with a splendid open view kitchen and a magnificent dehors,the restaurant is based on Italian cuisine (which never goes out of fashion) with some fantastic classic starters such as Spigaroli’s cured meat, veal in tuna sauce, burrata, and Recco focaccia. Of course with excellent raw materials. And then there are first courses such as Linguine with (giant) clams or main courses such as Blue lobster with courgettes and cauliflower.

If you happen to be in Saint-Tropez on Tuesdays or Saturdays, don’t miss a visit to the famous market on place de Lices(open until 1 pm). There are òots of people, lots of stands not only for the fashion-addicted but also for gourmet enthusiasts. When in season you will find incredible artichokes and asparagus, both with regards to taste and size.

During the summer, a visit to the beautiful beach in Ramuatelle is a must. There are many rather trendy restaurants here. Among them, there’s Club 55 with its unmatchable style, that doesn’t seem to suffer time (decades, in fact) passing by. Come here for lunch (in the evening, most restaurants by the sea are closed) one time, and you will return again and again. Not for the food, which is good though not memorable, but for the experience itself and in particular for the warm atmosphere that is to be found here. There’s live music played near the tables, and champagne and rosé wines flooding the dining room. If you survive, you can have a nap on the restaurant’s private beach. If you’re brave old sea dogs, Club 55 is one of the few places to have a deck and a tender. Try ordering the Bread basket with raw seasonal vegetables to be dipped in oil, they’re so big and good they have no equal.

When the evening comes, the best place is surely one of the restaurants overlooking the port, where you can find real floating palaces. Among all of the restaurants, we’ve chosen L’Escale, with its floor made of real, white sand, and elegant furniture. The menu is mostly focused on oysters and shellfish, all of which are very fresh. Choose the Plateau Royal: you’ll not be mistaken. What with the shy novelties and the old classics that grow stronger, this is Saint-Tropez: you may love it or hate it, it will not change. Like a quaint lady, with her virtues and her flaws. The choice is up to you.