10-12-2013
Magro, Luigi Taglienti’s re-interpretation of Borage ravioli. The chef born in Savona in 1979, since a few months ago has been the sole at the helm of Trussardi alla Scala in Milan, 1 Michelin star, +39.02.80688201. Borage (and its root too) come out of the filling and becomes the launching pad of this rolled fresh egg-pasta pansotto
Water, oil, lemon and liquorish represent a classic of Taglienti. A fresh and aromatic opening (here’s the recipe)
Black and white squid, the most “adulating” dish in our menu: under the squid leaves, in the shape of a Tao, the sea urchin panna cotta invites to clean the plate completely. The symmetry of the dish is only interrupted by an overcooked spaghetto, "an emblem of Italy"
Oyster, diaphragm and rose granita, another fresh yet wild and iron entrée
Prawn passatina with chickpeas and hazelnuts, turning Fulvio Pierangelini’s recipe upside-down
Eel with currants and black cherry zabaglione
Croccante
Prescinseua, a dish easier to eat than to pronounce. It’s a Ligurian-style curdle, made into an emulsion so as to make it even creamier. With basil, Taggiasca olives and powdered walnuts. A tribute to the acid flavour
Conserva, a preserve extensively we talked about on Identità di Pasta
Italian style fat liver with anchovy ice cream, perhaps the most convincing “classic” of Taglienti. The recipe, presented during Identità 2010, is available here
Onion and gold passion
Orange duck, a silent duck with double cooking, a good example of Taglienti’s neo-classic style, looking at the past and the future at the same time: the leg is glazed traditionally, in bigarad sauce (and the orange is mostly added as an aroma), in the breast, instead, the orange becomes the main flavour while the duck meat adds structure
Offal, a new chapter in the "Entrails and dessert" saga, directed by Taglienti. The base is made of beet softened with acacia honey; the offal is made of steamed lungs, heart and giblets, seasoned with black cherry juice. A tartare of sea-weeds, capers and confit lemon completes the dish
Petit fours
During a move, we found an old menu of Antiche Contrade in Cuneo. It dated back to 2008. The “Attimi Taglienti” tasting menu stood out, with dishes such as Oyster and foie gras with prickly pear juice, Beef sweetbreads with squid ink, scampi and lemon, and Veal head, heart of mackerel and black truffle.
With no desire to act as wise guys, we can state that Luigi Taglienti’s talent was already clear when he was still wearing a pair of worn out jeans, instead of the current dress. His dishes were almost always the happy result of a ferocious impact between sea and land, the same that over the geological eras has designed the profile of the Maritime Alps, the horizon that was inspiring him at the time. At Identità Golose, we awarded him with the "Beer in the kitchen" prize in October 2010, almost two years before the revolutions that pushed Andrea Berton (who has just re-flourished) from the backbench of Trussardi alla Scala and substituted him with the Cracco-Taglienti diarchy, the following year.
Butter and sage: sage is a caramelized powder and the hidden raviolo is liquid
Things change, however, and today you don’t go to Trussardi’s to rediscover treasures such as Borage ravioli, Prescinseua or the traditional Ligurian style rabbit. The name indicated in the menu, even when stated, is not necessarily indicative, because the chef, faithful to his surname (Taglienti, cutting, sharp) cuts dogmas into pieces and puts them back together into a chiasm, turning the sequence of the elements upside down: in the dish in the photo at the top, for instance, the borage filling becomes the wrapping and the pansotto leaves the main role to the root of the plant, which is grilled, chopped and even juiced.
Luigi Taglienti in his Trussardi alla Scala open kitchen
Before leaving you to the photo-gallery with the many dishes tasted, we remind you of two facts that add optimism to optimism. First, Marco Curcio and Simone Dimitri, sommelier and maître of this new version of Trussardi, are both 29. Second, ever since the establishment on the upper floor was divided – today, as you exit the lift, on the left you can find the cigars and spirits lounge, separated with a screen from the restaurant – there are less available seats. So the chef is free not to think of numbers and focus on his show in the kitchen. Trussardi alla Scala Piazza della Scala, 5 20121 Milan +39.02.80688201 Average prices: starters 38, first courses 30, fish mains 55, meat mains 48, desserts 25 euros Tasting menu: 140 and 160 euros
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt