Marco Reitano

Marco Reitano doesn’t agree about being the representative – not even if a leading one – of a negligible category, that of sommeliers. So much so that, together with some friends and colleagues who suffered from the same distress, he founded the association “Noi di sala”, with the ambition of spreading the motives and the culture of hospitality, education and competence.

Meanwhile Marco looks after, smiles, recommends, smiles, uncorks, smiles. Mostly, he smiles. Because he belongs to the relaxed school that avoids any haughtiness. There’s no gap between him and the guest. And it helps to have that nice, rascal face of his, adorned with a natural elegance which bypasses any possible subjection. It’s best to have a laugh, perhaps with a joke with that very controlled Roman accent that doesn’t take away an ounce from his professionalism.

Nonetheless, for the rest, the matter is extremely serious. It’s an almost inevitable drift when you govern a sanctuary such as the cellar of La Pergola at the Rome Cavalieri hotel, the only tri-starred restaurant in Rome, the stage of the most convincing service scene of all the country. Reitano manages 3 thousand labels, many tens of dozens of bottles. One would expect some adoration for the unreachable bottles. On the contrary, coming from the lowest ranks and having started to drudge at La Pergola a few decades ago, when as a student he needed to make ends meet, he knows that greatness can be hidden behind bottles with a normal price. Best if Italian (but even French...). And best if from local grapes varieties. And if someone who affirms he’s tasted 70 thousand wines says so...

Even when it comes to wine and food pairings, there are no dogmas. Of course, the collaboration with chef Heinz Beck is very close. Food and wine go arm in arm and killing a dish with the stigma of the masterpiece with an unsuitable glass is a crime. However, the Dickens, drinking is having fun, experimenting, risking; with a drink you build the foundations for a business, you say you’re sorry, start romantic liaisons. In other words, it’s not something you could do with one glass in one hand and a guidebook in the other.