via Ponte, 55a
San Martino Buon Albergo (Verona)
Anyone who has travelled at least once on the Milano-Venezia train route, has passed through San Martino Buon Albergo, almost certainly without noticing it because this town with a name that puts you in a good mood is attached to Verona, to the Verona Est toll-gate, to be precise. For those who love food, this is the village of Renato Bosco and his Saporè, an establishment selling bread and pizza, with a sweet divagation, a name that I believe he chose to end some misunderstandings with his colleagues. Previously, in fact, always in via Ponte, there was Pizzadarè, Pizza da Renato, but some people accused him of trying to be a prodigy, offering a “Pizza da re”, a regal pizza, the best one.
Today there is Saporè, in fact there are two, because at number 53 there’s Saporè Asporto (take away) and next door, at number 55, there’s Saporè where you can taste products on the spot, with a workshop in view, in the middle, where the client is almost hypnotized. The first is open every night, seven days a week, and is always closed at lunch. The pizzeria, instead, is closed only on Mondays at lunchtime, and that’s it.
Bosco, born in 1967, was already a waiter at the age of 14 and at 18 he approached the world of pizza growing fond of yeast, flour and dough. This turned out to be a true passion for bread and pizza he would never abandon, with the full discovery of mother yeast in 1996 and a constant desire to learn, understand and experiment even with pastry-making. This doesn’t happen often. Pastry-making is often disliked by many chefs, whose knowledge stops at savoury dishes, and pizza-chefs know almost nothing about it.
In the case of Renato this happened because he didn’t study pizza on its own, but first he investigated the world of bread making and leavening, and then he questioned how to season those superb discs. Bosco’s pizzas are a huge delicacy, flavours are particularly rich and there’s no risk of feeling bloated. He says so himself: “Years of experience and the desire to give my clients a digestible and tasty product have led me to perfect the different kinds of dough that I offer in my two restaurants”. His work is a constant effort to “re-unite” traditions to contemporary wisdom. His pizza is a total joy.
From Verona, born on 4th February 1967, he obtained the Master in Traditional Pizza, Pan Pizza (Roman style), and Pizza baked using the peel. He’s the owner of two pizzerias in San Martino Buon Albergo: Saporè and Saporè Asporto
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose.
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There are Food Courts organised by Identità Golose Milano at Supersalone, until Friday 10th September. One per each Pavilion. Each one hosts four of the eight recipes created by the chefs and pastry chefs selected by Identità: pastry chef Marco Pedron e Carlo Cracco; Matias Perdomo; Cristina Bowerman; Renato Bosco; Eugenio Boer; Massimo Bottura with Il Tortellante; gelatiere Paolo Brunelli; pastry chefs Giacomo and Andrea Besuschio
A slice of the pizza "all'antica", or sardenaria, or "all'Andrea", or piscialandrea whatever you prefer: this is one of the delicacies offered at Officine del Cibo in Sarzana. Photos from Stefano Caffarri
Pizza in the baking tin at Trecentogradi in Corigliano Calabro (Cosenza)