Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
+39 02 876774
«In May 2007, I was working at Caffè Scala, a banqueting firm in Milan. My colleague Iacopo [Zambarbieri, who collaborates with Identità Golose] told me Cracco was looking for a pastry chef. At the time I had never heard of him. I accepted. When I first began, I had two guys above me. One week later, the first left. One month later, the second left, mid-service. In the end, I only had Matteo Baronetto above me. I was scared like crazy». This is the most important sliding door for Luca Sacchi, who, a decade or so later, is now the sous chef at Cracco in Galleria, the most awaited opening of 2018.
For sure, this young man from Abbiategrasso has plenty of patience. Not yet 32, he’s already spent an incredible amount of hours with a stove or a planetary mixer under his nose. It all began in the mountains: «I didn’t want to attend catering school in Milan. I hadn’t heard great things about them. I chose a school in Ponte di Legno, in Val Camonica. I learnt a lot».
With the piece of paper in his pocket, in 2001 he immediately started in a prestigious restaurant, Antica Osteria del Ponte, also known as “La Cassinetta”, with Ezio Santin, 3 Michelin stars between 1990 and 1997. From the fog near home, to the year spent in Sardinia: «I worked in a pastry-shop in Castelcervo. That’s where I met Gianni Griseri. He’s the greatest professional I’ve ever seen. He was doing banquets in Saudi Arabia, state-of-the-art ice sculptures. He was a François Vatel from Piedmont, married to a Sardinian. Those were 3 inspiring months». Ten more months at Cala di Volpe followed: «I was the last of 5 pastry-chefs».
At 20 he returned to Meridiana in Garlenda, in the inland of Savona. Trivia fact: even his future boss Cracco had worked there, years earlier. «At the time, Luigi Taglienti was in the kitchen [he now has one Michelin star at Lume in Milan]. It was my first post with responsibilities. We were just 4 in the kitchen. We did everything. I remember Sacripantine [a dome-shaped cake originally from Genoa], stuffed peaches from Albenga…».
Six months at Caffè Scala and then the first steps in Via Victor Hugo in Milan. «I won the initial terror thanks to Matteo Baronetto. We worked together for almost 7 years. We had a beautiful relationship. He made me grow a lot, helping me to become what I am now. He trained me in every aspect, except one: pastry-making rules. He didn’t follow them. In fact, he made new rules. I tend to second techniques, in order to reach a result. However, pastry-making is freedom: «I love it because steaks are always the same, you must pay attention not to ruin them. In a dessert, the person making it decides everything: shape, ingredients, textures, temperatures».
He’s so good, that in early 2014 Cracco asked him: «Would you feel like replacing Matteo?». Sacchi masked his tension, reminding himself that he had already felt at ease by the pass for a couple of seasons: «Of course, why should I worry? As they say, Firemen have no fear». So without hesitation he took the role of sous. A sous chef always works with seraphic calm and irony. And never loses sight of the sweet side: «I’ve always liked chocolate». But explored in an heterodox way, Cracco-style, as with Burnt chocolate and boiled parsle, perhaps his signature dish: «Provocations are fine, but never done just for the sake of it», he admonishes.
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
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Carlo Cracco and Luca Sacchi opened the second day in the Auditorium at Identità Milano 2023 with their lecture (photo by Brambilla / Serrani)
Carlo Cracco, Alberto Gipponi, Enrico Bartolini, Andrea Aprea, Massimo Bottura on Wednesday morning at the Hub of Identità Golose Milano at the preview of the Identità Milano congress, which will take place from 28th to 30th January 2023 at MiCo in Via Gattamelata (photo Brambilla/Serrani)
Some of the speakers who will talk in the Auditorium at the 18th edition of Identità Milano, from the 28th to 30th of January
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