via Roma 68 / int.2
Cinto Caomaggiore (Venezia)
In order to improve, we have to look elsewhere. It is the winning saying of Fabrizio Nonis, Canadian by birth but of deep Italian origin. Born in Toronto, as a child Fabrizio was already started by his father in his butcher’s shop- bazaar. He got his land-surveyor diploma in Italy but he didn’t want to work with rulers. So, at 19 he went back to Canada to specialize in business public relations.
When he returned to Italy, his brain was functioning quicker, even though the limelight was still far away. And suddenly in 1990 he had the possibility to take over the full time butcher activity of his father in Caomaggiore, together with a series of myths to explode in a zone poor of native breeds. They were hard years even though full of ideas, characterized by his passion for gastronomy and rare products, while he was going from a fair to another with humility and devotion. His goal was to destroy the limits of the classical butcher to elevate him to the role of butcher-gastronomist, suggesting the best way to cook every cut as well as the right wine to be served: not only cutting, but cutting as a tailor, with passion, without following one single way but rather ranging over the kitchen too. The butcher shall get out of his shop and grow together with the chef’s pots and pans, improving himself. It was a futuristic idea for that time (it was the year 1996) and even more in an unlucky zone as regards quality breedings like Veneto.
Looking elsewhere, then: “if quality cannot be attained in my region, then I go and see the Central European breeds”, to the close-by Austria, with proposals to the consumer of meat products ready to cook, with spices, special salts, vegetables and cheeses coming from selected producers, up to different tastes of sausages and the wonderful Lingual. His brilliant innovation opened many doors to him: first of all he became professor at the University of Tastes in Perugia and then journalist.
Really convinced that butchery is a consequence of sale, Nonis considers hospitality, created to give the best to his customers, more important than profit.
A customer shall enter a butcher’s shop with the philosophy to learn, quietly indulging in the cooking and cultural specialties of the shop, waiting without hurry, may be accompanied by a cigar. Here is another great passion of his: Tuscan cigars.
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Carlo Cracco, Alberto Gipponi, Enrico Bartolini, Andrea Aprea, Massimo Bottura on Wednesday morning at the Hub of Identità Golose Milano at the preview of the Identità Milano congress, which will take place from 28th to 30th January 2023 at MiCo in Via Gattamelata (photo Brambilla/Serrani)