27-02-2013
Among the protagonists most appreciated by Regol, the chef del mar Ángel León: "No cook has ever managed to go beyond the concept of fine seafood cooking and create a true marine cosmogony", the French-Spanish reporter explains (photo by Alessandro Castiglioni)
Philippe Regol is a French reporter and critic, graduated in Spanish Philology. For over 30 years he’s lived in Barcelona and for two decades he’s worked as a chef. Passionate about gastronomy, he’s one the authors of Identità Golose’s Guida ai Ristoranti di Italia, Europa e Mondo, since its first edition, and animates the blog Observación Gastronómica 2. He has attended almost all of the editions of Identità Milano. For all these reasons we’ve asked him to sum up his favourite moments during the just ended ninth edition. 1) The theme of this edition of Identità Milano was Respect. Respect is the commandment guiding the work of Enrico Crippa, a humble and discreet chef who’s rarely present in the various international congresses. Crippa gets on the stage and speaks of cooking, he’s not selling hot air. In his dish there’s aesthetics but there’s also lots of common sense in his preparations. All his dishes strike the eye but they also stimulate the palate’s curiosity: for instance, see his complex “salad”, seasoned with whipped butter, lemon, sour cream, egg “bottarga”, pressed caviar, fassona cow cream, crispy nori seaweed, chervil. And if he uses the syphon, he always reminds it was Adrià who invented it. And as for the egg yolk in salt and sugar, he never forgets to mention its first author, namely Carlo Cracco. His is a lesson in ethics. Crippa also brought a (very free) version of cannellone. He invites to look closely at the tradition of his land and then he re-interprets it, but with no nationalisms: he does so through a work of healthy culinary introspection and respect.
Enrico Crippa
Flemish Pieter Lonneville together with Stefano Vegliani
1. To be continued
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
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A French graduate in Spanish Philology, for 40 years now he’s been living in Barcelona and for 20 he’s been a cook. A lover of gastronomy, he now livens up the Observación Gastronómica 2 blog