Above and beyond Tiramisu

A recipe to prepare this dessert following new models. Coffee, for instance, is a meringue

Luca De Santi’s creative Tiramisu. Last Thursday

Luca De Santi’s creative Tiramisu. Last Thursday, the Gvci association (which stands for Virtual group of Italian chefs) celebrated the sixth edition of the Idic, International day of Italian cuisines, in the name of this very Italian dessert

Tiramisu is a dessert I hold very dear: during my professional career I often came across it, in various forms and flavours, in traditional and more contemporary versions. Sometimes mistreated, sometimes sublime, I consider it a benchmark of the talent of those who prepare it. In fact, if I find it in the dessert menu of a restaurant, 80% of the time I choose it.

Last Thursday, at Ratanà in Milan, we tasted it following the traditional recipe of the GVCI: homemade savoiardi, coffee, Marsala, mascarpone cream and a dust of cocoa. I then proposed a version that had mascarpone as the protagonist, taking a challenge against the other ingredients: coffee becomes a very light meringue, cocoa, a crispy biscuit, and Marsala a luminous jelly. Below you can find all the steps to make it at home. 

Modern tiramisu

for the chocolate and salt biscuit
58 g of butter
19 g of sugar
46 g of brown sugar
68 g of flour
11 g of cocoa
1,5 g of baking soda
1 small pinch of salt
58 g of dark chocolate

Chop the dark chocolate at fridge temperature. In the planetary mixer, using a leaf beater, mix the butter and sugar, add the powders sifted together, then the salt and finally the chocolate. Spread the mixture over two sheets of baking paper, leave it to rest for a couple of hours, cut in squares and bake at 180°C for 9 minutes.

for the mascarpone cream
125 g of cream
30 g of egg yolks
20 g of sugar
2 g of gelatine sheets
125 g of mascarpone

Soak the gelatine sheets in very cold water. Mix the egg yolks and sugar, bring the cream to the boil and pour it on the egg yolks. Bring to 82°C then remove from the heat, add the finely drained gelatine sheets, then the mascarpone and whisk well. Leave to rest for at least 6 hours in the fridge.

for the coffee meringue
63 g of water
63 g of fresh egg white
4 g of albumin
30 g of sugar
5 g of instant coffee

Mix all the ingredients and leave to rest for at least 2 hours so that the albumin is completely rehydrated. Whip in the planetary mixer, at a high speed for 10-11 minutes, spread with a bent spatula on the baking tins covered with baking paper and bake at 120°C for 70-75 minutes. Keep in sealed boxes (it greatly suffers humidity)

for the coffee liquid
15 g of instant coffee
20 g of water

Mix well and keep in the fridge.

for the rum jelly
35 g of water
35 g of sugar
2,5 g of gelatine
80 g of water
20 g of rum

Make a syrup with the 35 g of water and the 35 g of sugar, add the gelatine sheets previously soaked in cold water and let it melt well. Add the 80 g of water and finally the liqueur. Leave to rest for at least 6 hours in the fridge. Instead of the rum, you can use your favourite liqueur.