05-05-2017
The entrance to restaurant Tondo in Rue de Cotte 29 in Paris. Sardinian chef Simone Tondo opened it on the 11th June 2016, in the same location of Petter Nilsson’s Gazzetta, the pioneer of Parisian bistronomie with Iñaki Aizpitarte
Paris, 2006. Chateubriand on the 11th arrondissment and La Gazzetta on the 12th open only a few weeks apart. Iñaki Aizpitarte and Petter Nilsson, a Basque chef and a Swedish one, open the season of the bistronomie, a tornado of freshness arriving on the global capital of fine dining and of hyper-super-noble tables. These places simplify service to a minimum, remove any pompous ritual and cancel the allure separating chef from client. They serve dishes free of ploys, rather elementary constructions with daring and sometimes brilliant combinations. There’s a large use of seasonal vegetables and tasting menus, a trick which, by eliminating the à la carte list, helps to empty the fridge, keep prices low and thus create a young, curious and faithful clientele. A generation that will feed the fire of this small revolution. Soon (or rather soon), the first epigones of Iñaki and Petter arrive: Sven Chartier (Saturne), Bertrand Grebaut (Septime), Grégory Marchand (Frenchie), American Daniel Rose (Spring), Stéphane Jégo (L’Ami Jeane), Italians Giovanni Passerini (Rino) first and Simone Tondo (Roseval) later.
A photo from 2011 snatched from the Guardian with the leaders of Parisian bistronomie: left to right, Gregory Marchand, Iñaki Aizpitarte, Daniel Rose, Giovanni Passerini and Stéphane Jégo. (copyright Denis Rouvre/The Guardian)
«In 2008», Tondo recalls, «I was doing an internship with Cracco in Milan. I read an article about Gazzetta in Gambero Rosso and decided I wanted to learn from this gentle chef who blended north and Mediterranean with elegance and no frills. I had already been admiring him since the days of Les Trois Salon in Uzès [Paolo Marchi wrote about it in 2005]. I still recall a dessert we used to make at Gazzetta: Gelato with milk, cucumber and fried fish skin. But also the Tortelli with crab broth and marjoram. He could make all sorts of things. We had plenty of clients. And they were thrilled». Please note: the price for lunch was 16.50 euros and in the evening there were two tasting menus for only 38 and 49 euros. An insult to the multi-starred temples of those days.
Simone Tondo with dining room director Stephanie Crockford
Tondo seats less people than Gazzetta but twice as many as Roseval. Contrary to Passerini, his concept is much more gastro than bistro: tablecloths are back, there’s nice cutlery and flowers stand out from large vases. In the dining room, there’s no longer the slap-on-the-shoulder yeah-yeah staff there used to be, but discreet Stephanie Crockford, previously at Fera at Claridge’s and Brasserie Blanc, a giant when it comes to set the rhythm of the service with a smile, helped by Danish-Japanese sommelier Jos Kjer, ex Chateubriand. However, the staff in the kitchen still shows the Gazzettan mark: with Tondo there are only 3 people cooking (including quick Matteo Testa, son of song-writer Gianmaria): «It’s expensive to train cooks in France», complains the chef, «if I could have some interns like in Italy it would be much simpler». Like in the days with Nilsson, the format still has accessible prices: 25 euros per lunch (for 3 entrées and a main course) and a tasting menu in the evening for 60 euros and 7 courses. He’s gradually introducing a menu, a bit of a violence for a bistronomic-tasting-menu character like him: «People have changed their taste, compared to 10 years ago: today many want to choose what to eat». It’s no longer time for chefs imposing themselves with a white foulard and a red face.
Pumpkin, mandarin and sea urchins by Simone Tondo
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt