07-11-2017
Jiro Ono, sushi master at Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo (3 Michelin stars), Massimo Bottura, chef at Osteria Francescana in Modena (3 Michelin stars), in Nobeoka, south Japan, for the International culinary conference organised by Matsushiro Yamamoto. A triumphant trip for both (photo by Takefumi Hamada)
It all begins on Thursday 2nd November at 5 pm. Massimo Bottura landed in Tokyo an hour ago and has one thing on his mind: sitting at Jiro Ono’s counter. The following day, the chef from Modena and the legendary sushi master are to meet in Nobeoka, 1000 km to the south-west of Tokyo. One of the most esteemed culinary critics in the country, Matsuhiro Yamamoto, the man who wrote the script for the successful “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” documentary, is responsible for bringing the two master chefs together. Sukiyabashi Jiro, the only 3 Michelin star restaurant run by a man born in the 1920s, sits just off Peninsula, the hotel where Bottura is staying. He cannot wait until tomorrow. «One of the moments that thrills me the most», says the Italian chef as he twists and turns under a spring sun, «is when I go to Jiro’s. I’ve been there a dozen times. It thrills me because each mouthful carries 200 years of history. In his sushi there’s the obsession of a man who only thinks of quality, who never ceases to learn. He always understands the person in front of him. He knows I eat to nourish my heart, not my stomach. And one joy nourishes the other». He stops in front of a staircase: «It’s down there. Let’s hope they’re not closed». On the mezzanine in front of the world famous sushi bar, two people are patiently waiting behind a sign which reads “no photos”. The sliding door to the restaurant is half-closed. Bottura peeks inside: «It’s him, he’s sleeping», says the excited chef. At this point Jiro’s son Yoshihiro arrives and wakes up his father. The Italian and Japanese chefs are joined in a long embrace. «What are you doing here?», asks a surprised Ono senior. «I stopped by to say hi». Another hug and the chef from Modena kisses the shiny head of the 92-year-old man, who, in reply of this exuberance, hands him a book that presents his work. «Jiro, do you think you have place today?», the Italian dares to ask before leaving. «What time?». «When you want». Ono gives a quick nod to his colleague who immediately returns with one of the world’s most exclusive reservation lists in hand, Barack Obama dined here in 2014 and many customers book their seat at the coveted counter a year in advance. The three of them stare hard at the list trying to find a place among the thick ideograms. «Sit now», orders the boss.
Jiro and his son Yoshi (54, to the right) look for a place for Bottura in the reservation book
Jiro’s sushi counter. It seats 10 people
The features of the reciprocal esteem will become clearer in the following days. In the famous documentary, there’s a part where Mizutani, a historic sushi-master in Tokyo, reflects on Jiro’s Stakhanovism: «Jiro leaves the restaurant just to go to funerals he cannot avoid. For decades he didn’t even leave at night, so much so, his children, when they saw him at home, would sometimes scream: look, there’s a stranger!». To participate in the debate with the Bottura at the International culinary conference in Nobeoka, Ono missed two services, Friday and Saturday. He whispered to Yamamoto, his friend of 35 years: «I’ve never left Tokyo: this is the first and last time». Why the exception? We asked the master: «I’m here because every day many clients dine at my place, but very few can tell me which is the best piece (of sushi). Massimo always gets it. He has the best palate I know of, like Joel Robuchon. Every service, I have my favourite sushi [out of a tasting menu of 20 pieces] and he always guesses it. If I see a person who understands my work, I always try to do my best in terms of beauty, taste, quality. When I know he’s coming, I make him conger. Every time he tastes it, he hugs me. I see him at the counter and I’m happy».
Zaiyu Hasegawa, chef at Jimbocho Den in Tokyo (bottom right) posted this photo on Instagram. Left to right, Takahiko Kondo, Jiro Ono, Emi Hasegawa, Massimo Bottura, Luca Fantin, Riccardo Forapani and Matsuhiro Yamamoto
Bottura with Japanese journalist Masa Ikeda, based in Italy. He’s the author of “Osteria Francescana, ristorante numero uno al mondo”, presented on Thursday at Peninsula hotel in Tokyo
Right after him, Bottura delivered a much appreciated speech: «Every year we throw away 1.3 tons of food. We cannot accept this». He then gave a detailed report on the growth of the Refettori: «We’ve opened in Bologna, London, Milan, Modena and Rio de Janeiro and we’re about to open in Montreal, Naples, Ouagadougou in Burkina Faso and Paris. As chefs, there’s a lot we can do: we’re much more than the sum of our recipes». These concepts were reinforced by the 3 dishes prepared for the final dinner with the help of Taka and Pippo from Modena, and Luca Fantin, who arrived specially from Bulgari in Tokyo alongside the chef from Den in Tokyo. Riso cacio e pepe, Parte croccante della lasagna and Oops mi è caduta la tartelletta al limone.
Bottura, Jiro and the mayor of Nobeoka
1. to be continued See also Sushi according to Jiro Bottura-Jiro, a meeting of giants [Translated by Slawka G. Scarso]
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt