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Kobe Desraumaults Rafael Peña Sergio Humada Alice Delcourt Ana  Roš Mario Batali Dominique Persoone
Alex Atala Identità  Golose - i protagonisti della cucina Mathias Dahlgren
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10-04-2014

Henderson, a lifetime achievement

British chef Fergus Henderson just won the Lifetime Achievement Award, ahead of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2014, taking place on the 28th of April at the London's Guildhalil. A meat maestro and founding partner of St. John, with several restaurants in London, Henderson has been awarded mainly because of the promotion of nose-to-tail cooking – the use of every part of the animal, which is now practised in many kitchens

30-03-2014

Ninth Festival Loiseau at Belle Mare Plage

Ninth edition from 30th March, at Belle Mare Plage, a resort of Constance group on the island of Mauritius, of the Festival Culinaire Bernard Loiseau, ending Sunday 6th April. Six European young starred chefs and six young chefs of Constance group will cook divided into pairs, one cook from abroad one from here. In the jury, with madame Dominique Loiseau and chef Patrick Bertron, also Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi

25-03-2014

Helena Rizzo best female chef 2014

Helena Rizzo, chef of Maní restaurant in Sao Paolo, Brazil, is the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2014, according to the jury of World's 50Best Restaurant. Rizzo succeeds in the award to glorious colleagues such as Nadia Santini, Bask Elena Arzak and French Anne-Sophie Pic. The paulista chef will be awarded in London on next 28th April, the day when the 50 best restaurant's list will be officially announced

12-03-2014

Berezutskiy best Russian young chef

It's Sergej Berezutskiy from Moscow the best young chef of the year 2014 in his country. The title, awarded today at restaurant White Rabbit in Moscow by an almost entirely Italian jury, will allow the cook to take part to the S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup 2014, scheduled in Venice for next June. Sergej is the twin brother of Ivan, already a name in the panorama of young and creative Russian cuisine

24-02-2014

Nahm at the top of Asia

Bangkok's Nahm has been voted the best restaurant according to the S.Pellegrino Asia's World's 50 Best. The restaurant by chefs Thompson and Polsuk (recently seen at Identità Milano) ensues Tokyo's Narisawa, who ranked second this year. At the 3rd place, an Indian restaurant, Gaggan, based in Bangkok. Hong Kong's Amber ranked 4th and Tokyo's Ryugin 5th. With 17 restaurants out of the 50 China is the most represented country in the list

15-02-2014

Bonci and Cuttaia ready for Omnivore

Paris, France, March 16-18th: the next edition of Omnivore, the "100% jeune cuisine" cooking congress, is ready to start at the Maison de la Mutualité, rue Saint Victor. In between the French chefs, both promising and already successful - from Piège to Toutain; from Pierre Gagnaire to Guillame Monjuré -  the schedule will include two Italians: Pino Cuttaia from Sicily and bread-and-pizza chef Gabriele Bonci from Rome

31-01-2014

Italy-Thailand, a dinner at Trussardi

An important dinner will take place on Sunday February the 9th at Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan: resident chef Luigi Taglienti will host colleagues Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, for a special meal organized together with Identità Golose. The tasting menu will include 6 dishes at the cost of 150 euro per person. For informations and bookings, alessandrolonghin-ext@trussardi.com, +39.366,6467249 

20-01-2014

Ice-cream: France wins, Italy second

France has just won the sixth edition of Coppa del Mondo di Gelateria, Ice-cream world cup, at Sigep in Rimini. The team's subject, led by Elie Cazaussus and composed by Christophe Bouret, Benoit Lagache, Jean Christophe Vitte and Yazid Ichemrahen was about “Leonardo Da Vinci's universe”. Italy ranked second with Stefano Biasini, Massimo Carnio, Marco Martinelli e Luca Mazzotta. Poland ranked third

03-01-2014

Luigi Nastri heads to Paris

Starting today, Luigi Nastri, always a chef of Settembrini in Rome, is the cook chief of Gazzetta restaurant in Paris. The former chef (and founder) Petter Nillson decided it was time to go back to Stockholm where his family lives. As Scatti di Gusto states, the Roman colony in Paris is now stronger than ever: after Giovanni Passerini at Rino, now it's time for Luigi Nastri

28-12-2013

Eater's best restaurants 2013

Pakta in Barcelona, Amass and Bror in Copenaghen, Carbone and Mission Cantina in New York, Chengdu Taste in Los Angeles, Edwins in Cleveland, Saltimporten Canteen in Malmö. Sweden, Vin Papillon in Montreal (Canada). These are just a few of many restaurants quoted into the traditional Eater's survey. The renowned food online magazine asked the opinion to several important food journalists and experts

16-12-2013

Gvci, Salicrù chef of the year

Ivan Icra Salicrù of restaurant Ronda in Dubai was nominated chef of the year by Gvci, Gruppo virtuale di cuochi italiani, an award estabilished to celebrate non Italian chefs cooking Italian cuisine abroad. Salicrù will receive a silver plate and will be invited to take part, next January the 17th, to the International Day of Italian Cuisines. The Italian dish they celebrate this year is Spaghetti with tomato and basil

12-12-2013

AltoGusto at Tivoli in Cortina

Dolomiti mountains are hosting AltoGusto, a gastronomic tour dedicated to cucina d'autore in the best restaurants of the area, with menu inspired by the theme "Cinema in the kitchen". On Friday December 13th, you can have dinner at Tivoli in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno) with chef Graziano Prest and Cantine Ferrari, together with an homage to actor Alberto SordiAltoGusto will proceed then with 6 more dinners

02-12-2013

Happy birthday, Identità English

December 2nd 2012 – December 2nd 2013 – the English version of Identità Golose’s website turns one. During the past 365 days, Slawka G. Scarso’s team has translated as many as 410 articles in 28 sections, a great number of pieces to be added to the over 300 portraits of chefs and to the hundreds of recipes that have enriched the website from the start. This important project aims to increase the audience of enthusiasts far beyond the Italian borders

27-11-2013

Casa Vicina's 10th anniversary

Tomorrow night, great dinner at Eataly Lingotto in Turin. They will celebrate the 10th year anniversary of restaurant Casa Vicina - Guido per Eataly, one Michelin star. Together with Claudio and Anna Vicina there will also be chef Peter Brunel. Dinner is 75 euro per person, wines included, 8 courses from Potato cooked in argyle together with rice stems and trout eggs to an Inusual panettone. For bookings +39.011.19506840

19-11-2013

Bottura and the Operazione Parigi

It's called Operazione Parigi and it's a project that is "going to take Italian food culture to the gastronomic capital of the world", with lectures on excellence held at the Italian institute of culture taken by Massimo Bottura, the first promoter, together with 16 important colleagues: Uliassi, Cedroni, Esposito, Perbellini, Cuttaia, Sultano, Oldani, Romito, Alajmo, Cannavacciuolo, Cracco, Scabin, Beck, Crippa, Berton, Cerea and Niederklofer

 

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Identità Golose 10 years (Video Brambilla - Serrani - Cicogna, duration 5'31")

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01-04-2014

Baronetto’s rebirth

A preview of Del Cambio, in Torino, the new ambitious adventure undertaken by the great chef previously by Cracco’s side

Sala Risorgimento, inside restaurant Del Cambio in Piazza Carignano in Torino, tel. +39.011.546690. The new establishment by Matteo Baronetto, previously by Carlo Cracco’s side for 18 years, will open to the public on Monday April 14th, after 12 months of great renovations and works that aim at transforming this historic salon into a gastronomic point of reference in the capital of Piedmont
Foto

Sala Risorgimento, inside restaurant Del Cambio in Piazza Carignano in Torino, tel. +39.011.546690. The new establishment by Matteo Baronetto, previously by Carlo Cracco’s side for 18 years, will open to the public on Monday April 14th, after 12 months of great renovations and works that aim at transforming this historic salon into a gastronomic point of reference in the capital of Piedmont


We announced Matteo Baronetto’s great emancipation in October 2013. Almost six months later, a group of journalists from all around Italy met in Piazza Carignano in Torino for a preview of the extremely ambitious project led by the star from Giaveno. In fact, at that time he had already spent one year personally looking after the design and renovations of the kitchens at Del Cambio, the Savoy salon par excellence, opened for the first time in 1757.

Vegetale salad, the first dish of Baronetto’s era at Del Cambio
Foto

Vegetale salad, the first dish of Baronetto’s era at Del Cambio

The place was closed for intense renovations over the past 12 months. These were wanted by medical entrepreneur Michele Denegri, who spent a fortune (6.5 million euros, some say) to give Torino an establishment with a great potential. Meanwhile, while sided by the Soprintendenza, the boisierie were renovated, the frescos, mirrors and chandeliers were made shine inside Sala Risorgimento,thesalon on the ground floor. The result made us almost feel relieved, when eating in a place so full of history, stuccoes and white marble – after being used to the pandemic minimalism of restaurants and to the progressive removal of tablecloths and frills. There’s the aura of Camillo Benso di Cavour, a historic customer, in the air: one can imagine his spirit made cocky by the vision of the guests, enjoying themselves after a long time of honest yet soulless cuisine.

The rebirth, risorgimento inMatteo Baronetto’s dishes implies a «meditative, though not too much, cuisine», the excited 37-year-old chef explained during his assignment speech, «analysing the Piedmontese essence, to which I am rooted. I always had the ambitious of returning here. Because you can eat very well in Torino. And because sooner or later, the time comes when you need to make a leap». Those who expected to find fried sea-bass on a hazelnut brittle or kidney paired with sea urchins in the menu were left disappointed. The chef is too intelligent to try to replicate Cracco’s logic in a context that is so distant from Via Victor Hugo in Milan.

The kitchens were designed by the chef from Giaveno
Foto

The kitchens were designed by the chef from Giaveno

Still, in the preview starter, Vegetale, we found Baronetto’s anarchy, a pretend-disoriented disposition that opposes itself to the geometric dishing out that is so common in contemporary cuisine. This was followed by two reassuring dishes, recalling Risorgimento while looking at the 21st century: Risotto alla Cavour (with egg cooked at low temperature, roast juices, black and carnaroli steamed rice) and a Finanziera (with spectacular raw fassona meat, sweetbreads and powdered mushrooms) which is a bit of an icon-dish at Del Cambio. The time and occasion will come to enjoy this and other works.

We finish the description of the setting. This is spread over multiple rooms and destined to multiple audiences. On the ground floor, next to Sala Risorgimento, there’s Sala Pistoletto, named after the master of Arte Povera Michelangelo Pistoletto, from Biella, who designed the 8 fun human figures portrayed on mirror-plates, in a room with a more antique structure than the “first room” (the room dates back to the 18th century) but made more current and smart thanks to the decor. «Del Cambio», Denegri stressed «must be a place for everyone, whether they come from Torino or not, a democratic place, not a snob one». This explains the multi-faceted offer: beside the à-la-carte menu and the tasting one, the score includes a light lunch and a déjeuner à la forchette, a sort of Parisian ancestor of brunch.

Matteo Baronetto, 37, and entrepreneur Michele Denegri, 45
Foto

Matteo Baronetto, 37, and entrepreneur Michele Denegri, 45

Once on the first floor, which was completely redesigned, one can find Cavour himself in a portrait from the late 19th century: he watches, with severity, over a magnificent cocktail bar, open until 1.30 in the morning. There’s great mixology and quick tastings. A further minimization of the regal aura on the ground floor. What strikes the most is perhaps two floors below the ground one, where there’s the wine cellar created during the last 12 months among the late 17th century walls: 16 thousand different bottles, divided into 1,900 labels, with 140 champagne labels, a range of vintages from the great Italian producers (Dal Forno, Gaja, Biondi Santi…) and as many as 25 vintages of Sauternes Chateau d’Yquem, are all crammed here. This is the (growing) kingdom of Fabio Gallo, chef sommelier and pillar, together with sous chef Diego Giglio (with a previous, already finished, experience at Palazzo Parigi in Milan) and dining room manager Daniele Sacco from Savigliano. This rebirth is also thanks to them.

Del Cambio
Piazza Carignano, 2
Torino
+39.011.546690
Closed on Sunday night
Bar Cavour open until 1.30 am
Average restaurant prices: à la carte 100-120 euros
Tasting menu 120-140 euros
Twitter: @delcambiotorino

Gabriele Zanatta

born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, he's been working as a co-author and coordinator of both Identità Web and Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook for the past 7 years
twitter @gabrielezanatt

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