8D Dempsey road
It’s called gastro-mixology and it is the art of pairing drink and dish. Where is the novelty? In the content that Ryan Clift, English prophet from Wiltshire who soon escaped to the antipodes to evangelize the inexperienced, puts in one and the other. As for drinks, we’re talking about Anglo-Saxon culture, and thus of spirits and tumbler – and not of wine and glasses. And also of progressive food, referring to the current level of the progress of this chef, born in 1977, which is the result of the European masters who have put him on the right track, before the long-haul flight to the antipodes: Marco-Pierre White, Peter Gordon, Emmanuel Renaut.
After them, came his stop in Australia, in Melbourne, where the young man perfected his skills next to Ray Capaldi, a theorist of traderne, a combination of tradition e modern. And next to Shannon Bennett of Vue de Monde, the Kurt Cobain of sustainable Aussie cuisine, an establishment where Clift cooked side by side with Lorenzo Cogo, who at that time was also in the midst of confronting himself with very distant worlds.
In 2008 he wore the chef stripes at the Tippling Club in Singapore, the most hipster bar on the Island state, with an interior designed like a tropical forest, a terrace and an industrial-style counter where Clift constantly infringes the unwritten rules of fine dining: you can chat with the chef at any moment, while he cooks on the other side of the counter. And the same goes with the mixologist Matthew Bax while he shakes the stirrer. Another encounter from the Vue de Monde, alter-ego Bax is the founder of the Melbourne Temperance Society, a clan that works to spread the cocktail culture. At the Tippling every dish is the extension of what you drink, or vice versa: the first admits to the loss of part of its identity in order to potentiate the other. So the chilli crab, Singapore’s national dish, is in harmony with a Japanese Michelada made with beer, yuzu, soy and togarashi. A world concentrate.
An Englishman from Devizes in Wiltshire, born in 1977, after a series of experiences in the UK and Europe, in 1999 he began his Australian adventure. In 2008 he jumped to Singapore, at the Tippling Club, among the best restaurants in Singapore and Asia but also one of the World’s 50 best bars
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
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The first to get on the afternoon stage of Identità Milano day one, are brothers Felipe and Thiago Castanho, the souls of the Remanso do Bosque restaurant, in the Amazonian state of Parà, in Brazil. According to Identità Milano, the young lions of “world cuisine” work in Italy, France, Spain, Sweden and Singapore (photo by Alessandro Castiglioni)