04-03-2018
Carlo Cracco at Identità di Pasta
The spirit of Gualtiero Marchesi lingers in the Sala Blu while Carlo Cracco, one of his favourite pupils, dedicates his lesson at Identità di Pasta to the Maestro. «It’s a trip back in time», says the Venetian chef, because «in a congress dedicated to the human factor, I believe a dedication to Gualtiero, who passed away recently and from whom I learnt most of the things I’ve expressed over time, is the best thing I could do». A declaration of love and respect which translates into the words he says while preparing a “new-take-tribute” of Marchesi’s famous Raviolo aperto, with risoni, scallops, sole, marinated egg yolk pastry and chervil.
«Marchesi didn’t like pasta – recalls Cracco. In 1977/1978, a post-crisis time, there were weird things that were popular: Marchesi served pasta made in a French style, with main courses and fried in butter. It was only after 1979 that he started to change his mind, using pasta no longer as a garnish, but as a main ingredient». Yet always in Marchesi’s style, of course. «In tasting menus, of the five rigatoni we were cooking in water, three were for the dish, two were spare. But then we’re speaking of Marchesi and he had his ideas to follow…».
But there’s more. Carlo Cracco also works with Lapo Elkann at Garage Italia, again in Milan. «We’re a little unorthodox there, so we asked Riccardo Felicetti [of Monograno Felicetti, partner at Identità di Pasta] to make a special pasta in the shape of a silencer». He accepted the challenge, «this pasta will be shaped after silencers used on an Abarth from the Seventies», says the patron at Monograno Felicetti. In fact, they said no to his first attempt. «It sucked…», laughs Cracco, as he waits for attempt number 2. Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
by
A journalist from Catania, now in Milan, she was born in 1966. «I travel, meet people and tell stories on Volevofareilgiornalista» and on numerous other publications
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