via Caminadella, 7
Trust me, it's all a matter of osmosis. If high cuisine now tries to stretch out its hand, towards bistronomy, pizza is also standing on its toes, perhaps leaning on a molecular crutch: there's no exception. You can understand this perfectly when you enter Berberè, a pizzeria opened in 2010 in Castel Maggiore by Matteo Aloe and Beniamino Bilali, respectively chef and pizza chef, or, better still, topping and yeast specialists. Theirs is a laboratory of experiments from which the renaissance of our most humiliated symbol has began, through creativity and science.
Born in 1985, Beniamino comes from Durrës, where his parents, bakers, used to make bread according to ancient traditions. These gestures and scents, after being dormant in his subconscious, were awakened in Italy, when, in order to pay for his studies (high school first, and then the Faculty of Chemistry) he wore the apron in some restaurants and pizzerias of the riviera. After the low enthusiasm felt in Albania, he found a new passion for the shovel, and was soon noted by critics and journalists. The doughs, however, were still the standard ones, and didn't satisfy his ambitions. This was until the deus ex machina arrived, namely Andrea Muccioli. After a chat, he rediscovered the childhood scents of mother yeast in the pizzeria of San Patrignano, with the corollary of a unconscious knowledge and the analysis of the best ingredients. The waist measure of the client shortened while the audience grew wider thanks to a new lightness.
His revolution, however, exploded in Castel Maggiore. «I asked myself: how come when rivers overflow, wheat starts to germinate? It is the sign of some almost magical properties, something that can give you goose pimples, which my studies allowed me to master. So I can make flour leaven without any other ingredient apart from water and salt, thanks to a process of hydrolysis and gelatinization that makes the dough lighter, easier to digest, and more alveolar». Pizza thus goes back to the ancient paradigma of the Medieval chopping board: the mere basis for the composition. Both the dough and the topping are made on spot, to seize Marchesi's timber phase.
Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini
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The nine speakers at Identità di Pizza 2022, a much-awaited section, as usual, at the Identità Milano congress, on Friday 22nd of April 2022 at MiCo in Milan, Sala Blu 2. From the top left corner, clockwise: Gianni Di Lella, Richard Abou Zaki, Alessandro Ratta, Angelo Rumolo, Pier Daniele Seu, Victor Lugger, Alberto Suardi, Andrea De Michele, Franco Pepe.
TO REGISTER FOR IDENTITÀ MILANO 2022, CLICK HERE AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS
The speakers at Identità di Pizza 2021: from the top left corner, clockwise, Danilo Brunetti, Ilaria Puddu, Simone Padoan, Luca Pezzetta, Francesco Martucci, Pier Daniele Seu, Cristian Marasco, Ciro Oliva
The speakers at Identità di Pane e di Pizza, 16 masters of pizza under the spotlight, for eight very interesting lessons throughout the entire day on Monday 26th October in Sala Blu 2 at MiCo in Milan, always in collaboration with Petra® Molino Quaglia. From the top left corner: Ciro Oliva, Cesare Foschi, Christian Marasco, the Donne di Pizza Donne di Cuore, Simone Padoan, Friedrich Schmuck, Luca Pezzetta, Fabrizio Mancinetti, Francesco Martucci.
TO REGISTER IN IDENTITÀ MILANO 2020, CLICK HERE AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS