«Man is what he heats». Today everybody quotes Ludwig Feuerbach, a philosopher who can be anything but a fine gastronomist. However, before being what we eat and digest, we are the genetic sequence of those who conceived us. And if today Emanuele Scarello is a chef able to serve solutions among the most original and timed of the Triveneto area, it is because his «fogolar furlano» just outside Udine has unceasingly handed down a comprehensive skill, which shuns expected ideas like children with the ogre, for 120 years and 5 generations.
While we are waiting to know if Tommaso, the chef’s youngest son, is willing to continue the dynasty – the premise is good because he asked for a kitchen as gift for his second birthday – going to revel in Godia to try the gastronomic strategies handed down to Emanuele by his mother Ivonne, who saw important kitchens in France and Italy and to whom the Michelin star awarded to the restaurant in 1999, just one year after the outset of her son in the kitchen, is owed, is an exercise worth the effort from any latitude.
Scarello is a boy who isn’t extraordinary: «I don’t wake up at 4 to go and buy fresh fish; if I have breakfast at 8,30 it doesn’t mean that my raw material is less fresh», he reveals. However, he has the marks of an outstanding person because his works about oil-cooking, cooking at low temperatures and the illusions of pasta made without flour could be inserted as a practical supplement into the hypothetical manifesto of the new Italian cooking. The public of Identità Golose already knows his transparent spaghetti cooked into the tomato water.
Small glasses, mousses and spoons: «today my cooking is a synthesis of past abuses». The victims: ingredients and raw materials never too far from the Friuli region. And his work is always sketched with a good pictorial tone – the latest Bar Ravioli bring very near to Stendhal’s syndrome – not drawn by an artist or thought by a scientist but offered by a chef who is a bit of both, but is first of all a man of character who burns himself, gets dirty but never submits to the sirens of exoticism: «I don’t care about lobsters and spiny lobsters if I get these turbots from the Adriatic Sea», he explains brandishing the above fish. After trying his oil-cooked version with smoked ham it’s impossible not to agree with him.
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
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Missy Robbins, chef at Lilia in Brooklyn, and Fortunato Nicotra of Felidia, co-authors of the last lesson at Identità New York, edition n.10 (photos from Brambilla/Serrani)
A preview of Identità Expo
The first floor of the Identità Expo restaurant