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01-01-2015

150 dishes of great Italian cuisine

The most interesting new entries in the menus, suggested by the chefs themselves. A great start for 2015

Fede, the dessert recently introduced in the menu

Fede, the dessert recently introduced in the menu at Le Calandre in Rubano (Padua). This dish by Massimiliano Alajmo is one of the 150 dishes indicated in alphabetical order (by chef), with which to start 2015, a year that appears to be a sparkling one, thanks to the Expo and much more (this dossier was translated into English by Slawka G Scarso

We spent a good part of December asking hundreds of Italian native or born elsewhere chefs (and pizza chefs, pastry chefs, ice cream makers, bakers...) a simple question: "Is there a dish you have recently introduced in the menu – or are about to introduce – of which you are proud? Could you tell us its name and sum up its meaning in a few words?". The result is an extraordinary 150-dish-long dossier. The great Italian cuisine of 2015 is all summed up in the following lines.

Rabbit cappelletti with burnt wheat and anchovy butter. Flavour and renewed tradition between sea and inland
(Fabio Abbattista, L'Albereta, Erbusco, Lombardy)

Quail on embers, bitter herbs and liver. Savours and scents from hillside cooking, interpreted in a contemporary way. The ember finishing adds aroma and the scent of tradition
(Riccardo Agostini, Il Piastrino, Pennabilli, Marche)

Fede. Faith. In order to emphasize the concept of faith, this dish is presented as if it were empty: the game is letting people perceive the presence of the cream through its aroma, but it is presented upside down. It is funny how easier it is for children to find the cream than adults
(Massimiliano Alajmo, Le Calandre, Rubano, Veneto)

Marinated salted codfish, porcini, egg, truffle and potato broth. This is a new interpretation of our Soup with mushrooms and salted codfish (1978). Back to the future
(Ugo Alciati, Guido, Serralunga d'Alba, Piedmont)

Chitarra blu. "Blue guitar". Senatore cappelli pasta alla chitarra, red cabbage purée, powdered orange, anchovy, smoked mackerel and fried cabbage. Transformations from red to deep blue
(Franco AlibertiÈvviva, Riccione, Emilia Romagna)

Pizza with mortadella made with mora romagnola pigs, broccoli, mature asiago cheese. Who would have said that pizza in Bologna could be good?
(Matteo Aloe, Berberè, Castelmggiore, Bologna and Florence)

Whole-wheat organic linguine “Selezione Gentile”, venus clams, turnip tips, candied lemon. Sapid, bitter, sweet and salty. And the cooking of the whole-wheat linguine in a turnip tips centrifuge juice
(Andrea Aprea, Vun at Park Hyatt, Milan)

Blend Spicy Bomba-Y. A new look for a great classic, penne all'arrabbiata, an emblem of Italy abroad. A meeting of cultures and flavours
(Francesco Apreda, Imàgo at hotel Hassler, Rome)

Una pesca per l'estate. "A peach for the summer". A dessert thanks to the large presence of peaches and a charming scent full of goodness and refined elegance that comes from the thought and the work of Josko Gravner
(Corrado Assenza, Caffè Sicilia, Noto, Sicily)

Trout and foie gras salad with avocado, green apple and touches of acidity. A cold and very scenic and complex entrée, due to the number of ingredients. On the palate, a beautiful alternating sequence of fat and oily elements, and others that are acid and astringent
(Stefano Baiocco, Villa Feltrinelli, Gargnano, Garda Lake)

Raviolo filled with acid curdle, pumpkin and geranium aromatised with lemon. A perfect balance between the sweetness of the pumpkin, the acidity of the fresh curdled milk, the porcini mushrooms and the freshness of the geranium aromatised with lemon
(Giuliano Baldessari, Aqua Crua, Barbarano Vicentino, Veneto)

Turbot alla mugnaia. Raw turbot, sashimi-style, with drops of lemon. When serving, I pour some butter melted in the pan. Minimalist but with profound ideas
(Matteo Baronetto, Del Cambio, Turin)

Agnolotti del plin, sausage and friarielli. Because it’s nice to be citizens of the world
(Paolo Barrale, Marennà, Sorbo Serpico, Campania)

Oil and lime buttons in cacciucco sauce and chargrilled octopus. Tuscan foundations in a dish full of contemporary elegance
(Enrico Bartolini, Devero, Cavenago Brianza, near Milan)

Small baked turnips, fake tartar sauce, pomegranate and trout eggs
. A poor dish cooked in an original way, and most of all good
(Cesare Battisti, Ratanà, Milan)

S’Campo
. An autumn soup with a modern interpretation: vegetables are lyophilised and placed on the bottom of the plate. A broth of crustaceans is then poured in front of the client: every tablespoon has a different flavour based on the vegetable you’re eating. The final touch is the scampi with a lightly spicy crumble of potatoes fried in extra virgin olive oil
(Heinz Beck, La Pergola at Cavalieri Hilton, Rome)

Duck tortelli, raw spinach and creamy saffron broth. The research on broth continues. In this case it becomes creamy by adding oil. There’s a Milanese touch in this version with saffron
(Andrea Berton, Berton, Milan)

Raw and cooked prawns with dark bread made with sfusato amalfitano, tapioca, tomatoes from Piennolo and basil sorbet. Technique, territory, experience and innovation
(Salvatore Bianco, Il Comandante at Romeo hotel, Naples)

Anchovies with provola. Local anchovies are glazed with a provola fondue on aubergines, with endive cream and powdered olives. A new look for the ultimate tradition
(Christoph Bob, Monastero di Santa Rosa, Conca dei Marini, Salerno, Amalfi Coast)

Essenza della Patata. "Essence of potatoes". The valorisation of a poor raw material, the simplicity of roots, our traditions. (I’m half Dutch and even there, as in Italy, potatoes are an emblem)
(Eugenio Boer, Essenza, Milan)

36 months matured Parmesan ice cream, polenta wafer, mandarin sorbet and peppermint leaves, paired with a flûte of Moscato. Ice cream is much more than cones and cups
(Simone Bonini, Carapina, Florence and Rome)

Risotto... a red prawn in the pastures of Valtellina
(Antonio Borruso, Umami, Bormio, Lombardy)

Pizza vegan hydrolysis of amides. No yeast, only the fermentation of broken wheat and water. No dairy products, only seasonal vegetables, and pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds. Nature and health, my philosophy
(Renato Bosco, Saporè, San Martino Buon Albergo, Veneto)

Sogno di una foce del Po.
"The dream of a Po river delta". Ravioli filled with marinated eel. Eel, onion, pasta made with burnt wheat, a very light teal jus, horseradish sauce, pomegranate concentrate. The Po Delta early in the morning
(Massimo Bottura, Osteria Francescana, Modena, Emilia Romagna)

Superspaghettini with borlotti and cannolicchi beans, red miso broth, lemon caviar and seaweeds. It represents me: Apulia and my travels
(Cristina Bowerman, Glass, Rome)

White soup with slightly fermented barley, salted codfish, haddock and smoked salmon. A classic Italian soup with fish from the North Sea
(Alberto Buratti, Koiné, Legnano, Milan)

Pigeon, blueberries, corn and truffle. My South American origins mixed with my Italian ones, without losing identity. A balanced dish pleasing heart and mind
(Roy Caceres, Metamorfosi, Rome)

Salted codfish, mandarin, olives and patacche. An interpretation of the salted codfish salad that people in Sicily have during the winter, the start of a Sunday lunch. It is served warm, to highlight flavours and aromas
(Vincenzo Candiano, Locanda Don Serafino, Ragusa, Sicily)

Smoked eel, crispy sea lettuce, potatoes and chicken jus. It is very focused on smokiness and on the reminiscence of crispy chicken skin. I offer it during the holidays, it’s a memory from my past
(Antonio Cannavacciuolo, Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio, Orta Lake)

Sautéed sea snails and liquid panissa. A few ingredients (and an undervalued mollusc) for a new interpretation of a timeless classic
(Davide Cannavino, La Voglia Matta, Genoa)

Potato half-moons with pumpkin, chestnuts shavings and a light taleggio fondue. I eliminated egg pasta and used potatoes. There are winter raw materials made noble with black truffle
(Daniel Canzian, Daniel, Milan)

Oca in onto (duck terrine) with mashed potatoes whipped with oil and ginger. A recipe from Padua, from the end of the 15th century, with a modern take. Method and marinade are the same as in the past, but the duck is cooked at low temperature
(Nicola Cavallaro, Un Posto a Milano, Milan)

Mackerel marinated in miso and roasted, fried aubergines and purée with lime. This is more delicious than my mother’s chargrilled mackerel!
(Moreno Cedroni, La Madonnina del Pescatore, Senigallia, Marche)

Pappardelle with castrato di laticauda. A dish that has disappeared from Italian tables
(Valerio Centofanti, L'Angolo d'Abruzzo, Carsoli, Abruzzo)

Mantis shrimp risotto with lemon, seawater and jasmine tea foam. My mum used to boil the mantis shrimp, cool them in water and salt and then lemon juice. Jasmine tea is the caress at the end
(Lionello Cera, Antica Osteria Cera, Campagna Lupia, near Venice)

Anchovies, chartreuse and mixed salad. Making this blue tailed fish from Calabrian tradition precious, by highlighting its flavours to the highest level
(Caterina Ceraudo, Dattilo, Strongoli, Calabria)

Apple millefoglie with cinnamon ice cream, amaretto crumble and green apple sorbet. A great classic, a timeless pairing. Memories of family warmth and love. Children’s sweet tooth
(Chicco Cerea, Da Vittorio, Brusaporto, Lombardy)

My anolino recalling Alsace. A dish from Piacenza meets foie gras, vegetable consommé
(Filippo Chiappini Dattilo, Antica Osteria del Teatro, Piacenza, Emilia Romagna)

Ravioli filled with potatoes and butter, pizzaiola sauce and berbere. A nice contrast between the creamy and fat filling, the light acidity of the tomato and all the scents of the pizzaiola sauce
(Stefano Ciotti, Urbino dei Laghi, Pesaro Urbino, Marche)

Pizza walnuts and pumpkin. Pumpkin, buffalo milk provola, walnuts from Sorrento, cacioricotta goat cheese from Cilento, extra virgin olive oil from Colline Salernitane. Walnuts are an emblem of the holidays: for people in Naples they’re o'spass (a past time while waiting for midnight)
(Enzo Coccia, La Notizia, Naples)

Monocromo with persimmon fruit. Persimmon fruit, carrot juice, Appenzeller cheese, kumquat and coriander. A work focused on one of the most difficult ingredients in the kitchen (because of its astringency...). An orange chromatic balance
(Lorenzo Cogo, El Coq, Marano Vicentino, Veneto)

Beetroot turns into tuna. Oven baked beetroot, marinated with honey and soy, browned, wrapped in sesame, cut into slices and placed on a purée of celeriac, vinegar and grated cheese with moscato. I enjoy creating classics with vegetables
(Igles Corelli, Atman, Pescia, Tuscany)

Ravioli filled with cotechino and scampi on a cream of red lentils. Classic ingredients, seen in light of a year full of explosive flavours
(Deborah Corsi, La Perla del Mare, San Vincenzo, Tuscany)

Orto 2014. A dish made with vegetables alone, standing out as a protagonist. There’s no salt, the sapidity is given by the grated fish eggs and the drops of Timorasso vinegar, which play with acidity
(Christian Costardi, Da Cinzia, Vercelli, Piedmont)

Meringata. A classic dessert, wrongly considered as banal. In this case it is given value to by a fresh ice cream and a light meringue. A delicious cake from the past
(Manuel Costardi, Da Cinzia, Vercelli, Piedmont)

Veal heart, fiolaro broccoli, porcini and nocino liqueur. The veal heart is prepared shabu shabu-style. The broccolo cooked into water. Then comes a foam with nocino liqueur, Worchester  sauce and meat jus. Black salt and porcino's head grated on top. A mineral, ferrous, earthy dish 
(Carlo Cracco with Luca Sacchi, Cracco, Milan)

[[ ima2 ]]Yellow turnips in cassoeula (photo above). A purée of rutabaga (a sort of cross between a turnip and a cabbage) rich and buttery, hidden under a rose of turnip cut into a disc. It is served with a cassoeula sauce and black truffle. A dish rich in calories but 100% vegetal, part of the Evasione tasting menu
(Enrico Crippa, Piazza Duomo, Alba, Piedmont)

Tortello in “falsomagro” with mortadella terrine. My mind this time leads me to falsomagro, a Sicilian meat roll that is called "falsomagro" [fake thin] because in fact it is super stuffed. The tortello in this case contains 3 elements: shallot, Ragusano cheese fondue and parsley. The mortadella, added on top in the shape of a terrine, creates a cold-hot contrast with the tortello
(Pino Cuttaia, La Madia, Licata, Sicily)

Veal tripe fricassee with seafood broth, grey lichen, porcini. Earth, sea and mountains. The woods and rural tradition. The historic connection between Asiago and Venice. Everything converges in the umami flavour
(Alessandro Dal Degan, La Tana, Asiago, Veneto)

Damini Bab: sandwich filled with Limousine belly cooked at low temperature. I managed to have my clients appreciate a cut from the front part of the animal, usually used for stock or thrown away. In fact, they want an encore of this belly!
(Giorgio Damini, Damini e Affini, Arzignano, Veneto)

Carrot purée, my garum and a meringue. I’ve always loved the contrast of sweet and savoury. I say “my” garum because there is no codified recipe. I add honey to make it milder
(Arcangelo Dandini, Arcangelo e Supplizio, Rome)

Carbonara egg. Traditional flavours and the fun of innovation
(Iside De Cesare, La Parolina, Acquapendente, Latium) 

Sole, fermented black garlic and porcini. Technique is used to make something beautiful good. A harmonious game of contrasts
(Stefano Deidda, Dal Corsaro, Cagliari, Sardinia)

Upside down bread soup. A reinterpretation of a great classic in Frosinone’s tradition, namely minestra di pane sotto. The bread is substituted by a sponge made with borlotti mushrooms
(Davide Del Duca, Osteria Fernanda, Rome)

Zivieri’s mora romagnola shin with hay, with beetroots marinated in vinegar and honey and a sauce of buffalo yogurt and horseradish. It will be the Sunday lunch forte (in 2015, goodbye hamburgers and goodbye brunch)
(Alice Delcourt, Erba Brusca, Milan)

Soft beef roast. Italian tradition filtered with current techniques that do not undermine flavours and textures
(Domenico Della Salandra, Taglio, Milan)

Black, a tribute to earth. A black dish with the arrival of the cold weather and with the juices, the flavours and the aromas of the autumn
(Federico Delmonte, Settembrini, Rome)

Mixed chargrilled fish. A classic that is wrongly considered stupid or simple. I prepare the fish so that the meat is very delicate and can be eaten entirely, bones included
(Nino Di Costanzo, Il Mosaico at Terme Manzi hotel, Ischia island, Campania)

Bonito with mushrooms, caper mayonnaise and lemon yogurt. It unites the winter element with the freshness of blue tailed fish. Bonito is cooked in two ways: the meat on one side, magnificent in the winter, and the skin on the other, with all its fabulous aromas
(Gennaro Esposito, Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense, Naples, Campania)

Cappe/tello, cappelletti filled with passatelli. The balance between the pasta and the filling in the classic shape of a cappelletto. Romagna inside Romagna
(Alberto Faccani, Magnolia,Cesenatico, Emilia Romagna)

Caruso: a tribute to Sorrento. There’s the cream of Lamon beans (my family). A classic sauté of mussel, passed in the evaporator. The cream is served hot with a mussel in the middle, the aroma of the sauté, smoke and scents. The music of Caruso and a final Neapolitan coffee
(Daniel Facen, L'Anteprima, Chiuduno, Lombardy)

Desalted salted codfish heart. Cooked in a wood oven and served on a pepper sauce with crispy fried leek. It’s been recently included in the menu and is very successful
(Franco Favaretto, Trattoria Baccalàdivino, Mestre, near Venice)

Risotto with mandarin and foie gras
. Succulent, delicate and persistent aromas. Recalling the holidays, thanks to the mandarin, always present in home kitchens and on the tables
(Annie Feolde, Italo Bassi e Riccardo Monco, Enoteca Pinchiorri, Florence)

Soused mackerel, hot rice milk and anchovies, renette apple infusion in juniper oil, date tomatoes and parsley crumbs. After many tests we have dished out our vision of summer in the winter
(Fabrizio Ferrari, Al Porticciolo 84, Lecco, Lombardy)

Rice, milk, vanilla. A dessert with an unconventional rice merging an exotic element (vanilla) with my Monferrato (cooked fruit, dehydrated vegetables and Cugnà sauce which is usually served with cheese). Colours, flavours, elegance
(Walter Ferretto, Il Cascinalenuovo, Isola d'Asti, Piedmont)

Roasted mackerel with red garlic sauce, acid emulsion and wild herbs. The mackerel filet is salted, marinated and finally roasted. The final cooking highlights the essential expression of the meat. The wild herbs recall the countryside in different facets. The two sauces balance the dish with fresh and acid notes. Character and verve from Abruzzo
(Nicola Fossaceca, Al Metro, San Salvo, Abruzzo)

Cheese sandwich. A very special dish, which represents the use of simple and traditional elements
(Riccardo Gaspari, El Brite de Larieto, Cortina D'Ampezzo, Veneto)

Red prawn, lemon, burnt leek and powdered olives. It fully represents our style in the kitchen without covering the pureness of the ingredients composing it
(Anthony Genovese, Il Pagliaccio, Rome)

Rice, rye and birch. I wanted to give value to the grains of rye, as if it were rice
(Alessandro Gilmozzi, El Molin, Cavalese, Trentino)

Anchovy colatura with puntarelle salad and ricotta. A Roman classic I serve with fresh, raw, marinated anchovies and with anchovy colatura from Cetara. A modern and light version
(Oliver Glowig, Oliver Glowig, Rome)

Rabbit entrails with chives, capers and green tea. When tasting it you find aromas, colours and memories of the surrounding panorama
(Gianluca Gorini, Le Giare, Montiano, Emilia Romagna)

Tongue millefoglie and panbrioche with cauliflower cream, wasabi aroma and red wine reduction.
My tradition with a touch of Japan
(Giulio Grotto, Enoteca De Feo, Cividale del Friuli, Friuli Venezia Giulia)

Fresh pasta buttons filled with "minestra maritata" on a cream of pumpkin and orange, with lobster and bread seasoned with anchovy colatura. A successful reinterpretation of a traditional recipe
(Vincenzo GuarinoL'Accanto at hotel Angiolieri, Vico Equense, Naples)

Pork rind, non-beans beans, brava sauce and hazelnuts. A Milanese classic transformed thanks to different textures and cooking procedures
(Dario Guidi, Antica Osteria Magenes, Barate di Gaggiano, near Milan)

Smoked potato gnocchi with a liquid heart of mozzarella, tomato sauce and oregano. The evolution of a must on the Amalfi Coast
(Ernesto Iaccarino, Don Alfonso 1890, Sant'Agata sui due golfi, Campania)

Eye of Parmesan – matured 36 months – coffee reduction, saffron and lacquered onion from Montoro. Sapid, sweet and bitter. My regions: Campania with the onions and Emilia with the Parmesan. With the coffee and the saffron pistils the series of excellences is complete
(Agostino Iacobucci, I Portici, Bologna, Emilia Romagna)

Total mackerel. The poor becomes rich. You eat it as a whole, from the head to the bones to the filet
(Giuseppe Iannotti, Kresios, Telese Terme, Campania)

Uitsuji Miso. Pre-salé lamb chops marinated in hot miso with a warm cream of carrots glazed with ginger. Japanese technique and foundations with an Italian touch
(Haruo Ichikawa e Lorenzo Lavezzari, Iyo, Milan)

"Che cavolo vuoi?" pizza. Cauliflower cream, fiordilatte cheese from Agerola with prawn tails from Mazara del Vallo, lardo from Colonnata, lemons from Sorrento, oil from Nocellara. I will keep it for as long as there will be cabbage
(Gianfranco Iervolino, Palazzo Vialdo, Torre del Greco, Campania)

Nerves, medlars and coffee. It’s the first time I manage to use the fruit from Vencò!
(Antonia Klugmann, L'Argine, Dolegna del Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia)

Marine marinata. Raw fassona meat with a sea pairing. The inspiration was given by garum: the fassona meat is marinated in seawater and anchovy colatura. The anchovies are then added together with raw vegetables, shellfish and sea urchins to season the chopped tomato with molasses sauce. A poly-symphonic starter
(Luca Landi, Lunasia at Green Park Resort, Tirrenia, Tuscany)

Amici si nasce o si diventa? Catalan cream made delicious thanks to Chiara Onida’s goat ricotta and our almond marzipan, paired with a delicately spicy pear ice cream. A meditation on friendship and the relationships that are the protagonists in our life. Through which we confront ourselves discovering who we really are, and if all goes well, becoming a better version of ourselves
(Pietro Leemann, Joia, Milan)

Lamb tartare with Italian flat oysters aromatised with mushrooms and new oil. We wanted to stress the aromatic notes of the lamb when it is fed in the pinewoods typical of my territory
(Marcello Leoni, Leoni, Bologna, Emilia Romagna)

Potato coins with yogurt, roasted scampi, taleggio sauce and bottarga di muggine. This is the sum of my professional life: Apulia, Alto Adige and Lombardy
(Felice Lo Basso, Unico, Milan)

The frog and the buffalo. Frog legs breaded with taralli and wild fennel, then cooked in buffalo milk butter and served on buffalo yogurt, orange gelatine, powdered olives and covered with lettuce air. Different worlds compensate each other
(Vitantonio Lombardo, Locanda Severino, Caggiano, Campania)

The call of the wood. Snail tempura, chickpea hummus, oil with spring onion and celeriac. The snail, here presented in a modern way, has been part of the local diet for centuries
(Alessio Longhini, Stube Gourmet at hotel Europa, Asiago, Veneto)

Cassoeula (Cabbage and pig). My own version of the great Milanese classic. Two different pigs (one from Tuscany and one from Lumbardy) cooked separately (roasted ribs and steamed face and ears). The customer is invited to cut his pieces (further details at Identità Estreme's speech next February)
(Paolo Lopriore, Kitchen at Grand Hotel di Como, Como lake)

Pike, chicory, gnocchi and anchovies. A happy meeting of the salty and bitter flavours
(Leandro Luppi, Vecchia Malcesine, Malcesine, Veneto)

Buckwheat paccheri, raw tuna, caper pesto and crispy bread. If served as it should (that is to say quickly, so the pasta doesn’t get cold), it expresses a good contrast between hot, cold and the crispiness of bread. (We make our own paccheri)
(Cristian Magri, Cristian Magri, Settimo Milanese near Milan)

Spaghetti creamed with cauliflower cooking water, bottarga, oyster leaves and orange. A traditional winter salad paired with cauliflower and orange
(Giuseppe Mancino, Piccolo Principe del Principe di Piemonte, Viareggio, Tuscany)

Spaghettone di Gragnano with fake carbonara. A perfect faking, the representation of what we’re experiencing today
(Rosanna Marziale, Le Colonne, Caserta, Campania)

Veal rosticciana, Schiaccioni beans and slipper lobster. It encloses “my" Versilia between sea and countryside
(Andrea Mattei, La Magnolia at hotel Byron, Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany)

Tortelli di pisarei filled with anolini. The three pillars in the cultural and culinary tradition of my province. When you visit a trattoria you can never decide which, I put all three together
(Isa Mazzocchi, La Palta, Bilegno di Piacenza, Emilia Romagna)

[[ ima3 ]]Ofelia the duck looking into the pond (photo above). Duck, oyster, black cabbage, beet and cockles. The alchemic vision of Shakespeare’s Ofelia, the timeless incarnation of female purity and poetry
(Aurora Mazzucchelli, Marconi, Sasso Marconi, Emilia Romagna)

Blue tailed fish and roots in different textures. Humble yet full of taste raw materials, recalling Roots and salted anchovies, a dish my grandmother would make to cleanse us after the holidays
(Serenella Medone, Al Solito Posto, Bogliasco, near Genoa)

Sweet truffle and its pairings. Highlighting truffle in a sweet and cold version is twice as satisfactory for someone from Piedmont. Territory and childhood
(Christian MiloneGastronavicella della Trattoria Zappatori, Pinerolo, Piedmont)

Egg marinated in miso, Jerusalem artichoke and caviar. A great meeting of sapidity and fatness. With the mediation of roots
(Luciano Monosilio, Pipero al Rex, Rome)

Risotto with turnip, truffle and caraway seeds. A vegetarian risotto with an undervalued spice that has great potential. The infinite resources of our country
(Alessandro Negrini and Fabio Pisani, Aimo e Nadia, Milan)

Winter river. A summary of my «cook the mountain» philosophy: lavaret tartare, stones made with caolino potatoes and vegetal charcoal, river water gelatine, freetzy ice, cream of oyster leaves, snow of oil and malt, smoke
(Norbert Niederkofler, St. Hubertus, San Cassiano, Alto Adige)

Potato, beetroot and carrots – from Earth, feeding the Planet. The environmentally friendly “i-dish” I designed for Kartell
(Davide Oldani, D'O, Cornaredo, near Milan)

Pizza with turnips
. Four different turnips cooked in 4 different ways (grilled, steamed, stir fried and raw). Sweet and bitter flavours. Earth, minerality, winter
(Simone Padoan, I Tigli, San Bonifacio, Veneto)

Bream and foie gras skewer, carrot cream with Martini dry and seaweed salad
. I enjoy it when people taste it
(Pasquale Palamaro, L'Indaco del Regina Isabella, Ischia island, Campania)

Chargrilled eel and sweetbreads with savoury lemon gelatine. Two classics from our winter cuisine hugging each other lovingly without disturbing one another. Same texture, they are supported by the smoky scent and made more lively thanks to the lemon gelatine
(Davide Palluda, All'Enoteca, Canale, Piedmont)

Chestnut maltagliati in a winter soup. Our winter tradition, with a first course in a broth full of flavours from the earth (recipe here)
(Enrico PaneroDa Vinci a Eataly Firenze, Florence)

Pizza recalling Australia. With macadamia nuts prepared in two versions (creamed and toasted), scalded scallop and prosciutto chips. Created together with Stefano Manfredi from Sydney
(Antonio Pappalardo, La Cascina dei Sapori, Rezzato, Lombardy)

Kiwi, pistachios, capers and beets. A dessert with an unusual ingredient, namely kiwi. A great satisfaction for me, it works!
(Pier Giorgio Parini, Povero Diavolo, Torriana, Emilia Romagna)

Smile Africa. A pizza that recalls the classic Neapolitan stuffed pepper with a cream of peppers, capers, buffalo milk mozzarella, pâté and extra virgin olive oil from Caiazzo olives. Part of the proceeds from this pizza go to a charity working in Africa
(Franco Pepe, Pepe in Grani, Caiazzo, Campania)

Crème brûlée ravioli with toasted corn, marinated sturgeon and smoked caviar
. It recalls the traditional flavours of the Po Valley made precious by the eggs of smoked caviar. A surprisingly refined pairing
(Giancarlo Perbellini, Casa Perbellini, Verona, Veneto)

Bolognese pasta. The last chapter in a series in which we see pasta as an ingredient and not an end product. It is a "lasagna" hydrated in cold water for 24 hours, with which a batter is then made with béchamel and meat sauce inside
(Matias Perdomo, Al Pont de Ferr, Milan)

Gureu. Gureu means chard in Sardinian, one of the most important vegetables in our tradition. They are blanched in water and then creamed in a pan as if it were pasta with extra virgin olive oil, mastic oil, powdered seeds (sesame, sunflower, flax) and toasted wheat and cow cheese (spianata del Gennargentu) matured 60 months. A very simple dish that fills with emotions thanks to its bittersweet taste
(Roberto Petza, S'Apposentu, Siddi, Sardinia)

Veganettone. A cake that is very similar to panettone, created for those who are allergic to eggs or dairy products. 100% natural yeast, it follows the same leavening process as panettone
(Roberta Pezzella, Panificio Bonci, Rome)

Kamut Felicetti linguine, pumpkin, camomile and trout eggs. My territory meets the mountains. (Besides, we’ve spent the entire summer drying camomile...)
(Oliver Piras, Aga, San Vito di Cadore, Veneto)

Crispy artichoke filled with Sicilian pecorino on courgettes with mint and taggiasche olives. A super classic, here it is the unquestioned king of starters from the end of October until the end of April
(Andrea Provenzani, Il Liberty, Milan)

Sole skewer on embers with its eggs and duck foie gras. It expresses the total sapidity of fish in its best season, strongly rooted in local tradition
(Gian Paolo Raschi, Guido, Rimini, Emilia Romagna)

Pizza with cabbage from Valle del Tellaro, natural salted codfish, toasted almonds, dried orange zest. Salted codfish at Christmas is always present on the tables in Veneto. In this case, there are also the scents and colours of the Mediterranean Sea
(Lello Ravagnan, Grigoris, Mestre, near Venice)

A tribute to oyster. The flavour and the scent of the sea, to be enjoyed and recalled when waking up
(Ivano Ricchebono, The Cook, Arenzano, near Genoa)

Gragnano paccheri with tomato sauce, basil from Prà and the heart of a buffalo milk burrata
. It is the emblem of our restaurant and its dairy products. An Italian dish: balanced, tasty and full of harmony
(Nico Rizzi, Ladybù, Milan)

Alcoholic mixed salad and almond. Valorising the vegetal heritage of this territory and our research on almonds. A powerful synthesis of balance, well being and taste
(Niko Romito, Reale-Casadonna, Castel di Sangro, Abruzzo)

Catalan-style crab: chargrilled crab claw with its shell, gelatine of tomato water, celery and green apple ice cream, pickled scallions and toasted almonds. One great classic of ours, simple and delicious
(Eugenio Roncoroni, Al Mercato, Milan)

Squid cannellone, braised oxtail, dried scallops, umami. The convergence of different worlds: China (rice cannelloni), Renaissance (the custom of pairing meat and fish) and Italy (cannelloni)
(Angelo Sabatelli, Angelo Sabatelli, Monopoli, Apulia)

Pasta and beans my way. Researching on a poor and great quality product - the bean -, going to new aesthetics and textures
(Marco Sacco, Piccolo Lago, Verbania, Piedmont)

Casteluccio lentils soup with poached sole fillets and cappelletti with curry. Desecrating tradition with the addition of curry. A drop of oil will add a spicy note. An evolved taste with Italian foundations
(Claudio Sadler, Sadler, Milan)

Fried filling with ricotta and buffalo milk mozzarella, and artisanal 'nduja from Spilinga. A traditional pizza reinterpreted using local products but also excellences from other regions
(Ciro Salvo, 50 Kalò, Naples)

Pizza maritata. A great Neapolitan classic in the shape of a pizza: torzelle, endive, chicory, cabbage and black soup fried with cheek lard and "salsiccia di polmone" (lung sausage). The pizza is filled, seasoned with fior di latte and pecorino
(Francesco e Salvatore Salvo, Salvo Pizzaioli, San Giorgio a Cremano, near Naples)

Potato gnocchi in sea bass jus, taggiasche olives, bottarga di muggine and crispy artichokes. Gnocchi are almost the top for children (or at least they were so, for me). So here came the idea of matching a classic first course with an unusual preparation and presentation
(NadiaGiovanni Santini, Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull'Oglio, Lombardy)

Cecina with burrata fillets, marinated tomato, anchovies and rocket salad. Farinata jumps into the pan...
(Barbara Scabin, Blupum, Ivrea, Piedmont)

Bolognese-style calamari. A lasagna divest into the sea in winter...
(Davide Scabin, Combal.zero, Rivoli, near Turin)

Roasted potato ice cream with oyster tartare, buttermilk and caviar. On the plate we place a tartare of oysters marinated with a ginger extract, with a ball of potato ice cream on top. Then again the milk and the caviar. As a pairing, we serve a Gin Tonic with Monkey 47. It’s a rich dessert that arrives in Godia and marries poor
(Emanuele Scarello, Agli Amici, Udine, Friuli Venezia Giulia)

Tagliolini with burnt wheat con-fuso (carbonara and anchovies). The years spent in Roccaraso: the tradition of cured meat (cheek lard) and the memory of the seaside far away (recipe here)
(Felice Sgarra, Umami, Andria, Apulia)

Amberjack, seasonal vegetable brunoise, liquid Grana Padano and black truffle. The elegant meeting of an amberjack with liquid Grana Padano, with the vegetables adding freshness and crispiness
(Fulvio Siccardi, Da Noi In at Magna Pars, Milan)

Yellow margherita with con natural yellow tomatoes. The tomatoes is served in his original golden dress, adding some raw Conciato Romano (the eldest Italian cheese) on a pizza dish made with biological flour
(Gino Sorbillo, Sorbillo, Naples and Milan)

La Croque Guagliò. A Croque Monsieur, typical of brasseries, interpreted with the products from my land. A memory of my time in Paris
(Giovanni Sorrentino, Vinile, Salerno, Campania)

Porchetta. Very popular where I live, it reminds me of the picnics we had in the mountains. Crispy bread and crispy pork rind, it’s one of my favourite dishes, still in the menu
(Mattia Spadone, La Bandiera, Civitella Casanova, Abruzzo)

Fettuccelle with cooked and raw purple prawns and tarragon
. The prawn extract envelops and gives softness to the pasta, enhancing the flavour of the raw prawns. The raw materials are enhanced thanks to the long process but the final effect is full of simplicity and clean flavours
(Francesco Sposito, Taverna Estia, Brusciano, Campania)

Beetroot "bresaola", soy yogurt, pollen and saffron caviar. An interesting and craveable vegetal journey, a choice, not a fall-back. (Dish taken from the "La strada vegetale" menu)
(Marco Stabile, Ora d'Aria, Florence)

Amberjack on a Sicilian shore. Served with an earth made with capers and black olives stuffed with marzipan and a sauce of smoked fish. It translates the idea of Sicily as mother, as earth, as the creator of energy, generosity and fertility
(Ciccio Sultano, Duomo, Ragusa, Sicily)

Oysters, veal nose and cabbage leaf. It represents my philosophy and my way of cooking
(Luigi Taglienti, Milan)

Macco gnocchi filled with chicory, aromatic pork broth and dried sausage. Territory and tradition from Modica, with new and unexpected words
(David Tamburini, La Gazza Ladra, Modica, Sicily)

[[ ima4 ]]Hanging pigeon (photo above). I want to present, once again, pigeon in the Italia style, which you can eat with your hands because it is served with the bones. It’s called "hanging" because it is tied upside down on the stove so as to recuperate the dispersed heat...
(Cristiano Tomei, L'Imbuto, Viareggio, Tuscany)

Gnudi  by the sea. Gnudi (="nude" in Italian dialect) smoked in hay, wild fennel broth and sea urchins. Earth and sea (that is to say my Sardinia)
(Simone Tondo, Roseval, Paris)

Tripe and mussels, winter version
. With San Marzano tomatoes, Roman style. A meeting between Rovato and Cetara
(Pasquale Torrente, Al Convento in Cetara, Campania and Burro e Alici in Rovato, Lombardy)

Mullet stuffed with black truffle with cauliflower mousse, milk chips and emulsion of palm sugar. The perfect synthesis of earth, sea and vegetable garden
(Matteo Torretta, Asola, Milan)

Rabbit ravioli glazed with Sichuan pepper, smoked leeks and black truffle. Roasted rabbit, a classic, made gentler and enriched by the smoke of the fire and the chimney
(Cristian Torsiello, Osteria Arbustico, Valva, Campania)

Risotto, woodcock, chestnuts, juniper. Autumn in Senigallia
(Mauro Uliassi, Uliassi, Senigallia, Marche)

Spaghetti with clams. A classic few people know how to do well. Benedetto cavalieri spaghetti, local clams, oil aromatised with parsley and crispy garlic chips...
(Lele Usai, Il Tino, Ostia, near Rome)

Bella con l'anima. Beautiful, with a soul. Crispy sweetbreads with beetroot ice cream, yogurt sauce, beetroot earth. There are 4 different flavours: bitter, sweet, salty and acid. I truly love the beetroot/sweetbreads match
(Vivana Varese, Alice, Milan)

Crispy lasagna. The evolution of the very recent Piedmontese closed lasagna and the only way to eat lasagne al dente. Egg pasta is cooked al dente and seasoned with a reduction of cream and a drop of roast jus, a meat sauce made with veal and pork, all enwrapped in a crispy wafer of Grana Padano matured for 20 months
(Claudio Vicina Mazzaretto, Casa Vicina at Eataly, Turin)

Cream of potato with oil, with white chocolate and caviar. The potatoes are vacuum cooked and then whipped with extra virgin olive oil. Flakes of chocolate at -18°C. The caviar is served as a quenelle
(Ilario Vinciguerra, Ilario Vinciguerra Restaurant, Gallarate, Lombardy)

Impepata 2015. An acid journey taking you from the beach in Mergellina to the aromatic lemon groves in Sorrento, from the bottom of the sea in the Gulf of Naples to the fields of wheat in the golden summer. With Mischiato Delicato pasta, the most gentle format by Pastificio dei Campi. This pasta tiptoes at first and then turns out to be a king. A journey of love
(Marianna Vitale, Sud, Quarto, near Naples)

Goat with fermented milk, blueberries cooked in spices and elderberry vinegar. A dialogue between very tasty meat and acid and lactic components. Mountain flavours
(Federico Zanasi, Snowflake at Principe delle Nevi, Cervinia, Aosta Valley)

Grilled mullet, purée of borlotti beans from Lamon, earth made with olives from Garda and coffee reduction. A poor fish, toasted flavours and colours in the meeting of three territories: valleys, lake and mountain
(Daniele Zennaro, Vecio Fritolin, Venice)

Meat sauce made with rooster crests, veal cheek, sottl'y laisse, sweetbreads, pistachio and marsala. A dish I like very much
(Mauricio Zillo, Rebelot del Pont, Milan) 

Enrico Crippa’s dish. Photo by Gil Grigliatti, t

Enrico Crippa’s dish. Photo by Gil Grigliatti, taken from iSymposium

Aurora Mazzucchelli's dish

Aurora Mazzucchelli's dish

Cristiano Tomei's dish

Cristiano Tomei's dish


Primo piano

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by

Gabriele Zanatta

born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. 
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