Jacques Décoret
Cuttlefish "Risotto"by Ivano Mestriner
Dall'Italia Atelier Moessmer: il nuovo ristorante di Niederkofler aprirà il 12 luglio a Brunico. E sarà bellissimo
Alain Ducasse, to the right, with Xavier Alberti, president of les Collectionneurs, and Carole Pourchet, general manager
The French edition of Forbes recently featured him on the cover of their special issue on luxury, philanthropy and green economy. «The unsinkable Alain Ducasse», it says referring to the Awards du Luxe 2021, «the chef is for sure one of the most famous names in the world. More than a surname, it's become the signature behind an incredible number of restaurants». A remarkable figure in the contemporary gastronomic scene, an entrepreneur and successful chef, Monsieur Ducasse is the only one to have received three Michelin stars in three different countries, and is to this day the ‘most starred’ chef in the world, with a total of 19 stars spread over 30 restaurants in 9 countries and 3 different continents: France, Monaco, United States, United Kingdom, Japan, Thailand, China, Singapore and Qatar.
He's the director, scene director and script writer of a show that over the years has become richer and has renewed itself constantly, giving rhythm and life to a new concept of cuisine and restaurant that has left a mark, first on some great chefs, famous disciples of his, like Massimo Bottura, Carlo Cracco, Davide Oldani and Andrea Berton, to name a few. «More than a cook, I feel I'm an artistic director, with the desire to always do something new». And share this, whether with young talents or established chefs. Not forgetting how important training is for him: the famous Ecole Ducasse, established in 1999, now supported by Sommet Education, opened an avantgarde campus in Meudon-La-Forêt designed by Arte Champentier.
What is the secret of your success, Monsieur Ducasse? «Believing every day in what you do, strongly. Thoughts take shape, daily, we are the makers of our destiny». Being united, for Ducasse, in these hard times, is crucial, this is why sharing goals and values as they do in this community is the leverage that will help build the future. Now the hardest part is over, for Ducasse it's now time to look ahead. Hence the importance for the great chef to «cultivate differences, enrich oneself with the experiences of others», using travel as a strength and starting point. «We're leaving the crisis caused by Covid-19: travellers are ready to return to our ‘homes’, to share experiences and moments of conviviality».
Xavier Alberti
Carole Pourchet
Antica Corte Pallavicina
Stelle sul Po’
November Porc ‘Le Grand Table’
Chris Oberhammer
Some of the chefs participating in the Dolomiti Gourmet Festival
We're starting again, looking at the road in front of us, without forgetting the lesson brought by what we experienced, because according to Ducasse the epidemic has highlighted our weaknesses, like the fact that «Europe depends on international travellers, without whom the economy in our industry is at risk. But soon they will be back, they are coming back, more numerous and with more ‘appetite’ than before, because the Old Continent is an extraordinary destination, and countries like France and Italy are among the most sought after». It's hard not to have faith in his words, in him, you just need to know his history or simply look at his present: Ducasse is an unmatched example. Nothing is improvised, because success requires effort, passion, sacrifice, dedication, ambition, but also the deep humanity that he has always shown, representing, as in the case of les Collectionneurs, a precious point of reference for everyone in the darkest hour.
While at the beginning of his career his training with giants of nouvelle cuisine like Michel Guérard, Gaston Lenôtre, Roger Vergé and Alain Chapel was crucial, what made the difference was his determination, which brought him to become chef at Juan-les-Pins's Terrasse which was followed by countless openings. Including Louis XV in Monaco, Plaza Athénée in Paris, and then in New York, Tokyo, Kyoto or Doha. After Plaza closed, after twenty years, today Ducasse's partnership with the Dorchester group continues in London, in three-starred Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester and in Paris, in two-starred Le Meurice. But Ducasse never stopped. Also in the Ville Lumière he recently launched a pop up called ADMO, born in partnership with Albert Adrià, Romain Meder and Jessica Préalpato, magnificently located on the top floor of the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac, right below the Eiffel Tower, which offers, only until the 3rd of March 2022, a fine dining menu that gives an experimental take while having its roots in France and Spain.
ADMO's protagonists
Salon des Manufactures, the first gourmand restaurant on the first floor of boutique Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, opened in October in Rue des Petits Champs next to Palais-Royal. It's directed by Alessandro Lucassino, a talented chef originally from Tuscany, and a pupil of Ducasse. And then there's his elegance, and his unique way of infusing modernity in historic Parisian brasseries and bistros like Aux Lyonnais, which is a magnet with two thirty-year-olds: Marie Victorine Manoa in the kitchen and Gabriele Aguillo in the dining room. Not to mention the brand new Sapid, a restaurant in Paris which offers a menu made of 95% vegetable starting from 10 euros.
«We're aware that the planet has scarce resources, and we want to go back to look after to our planet, and after the men and women who cultivate it, fish in it, harvest it», said Ducasse. Respect and attention, solidarity and inclusion, sustainability and sharing, dedication and cohesion. Hospitality is a world. The art of hospitality is the privileged key to access it.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Professional journalist, consultant at Identità Golose, deputy editor at The CUBE Magazine and contributor at AD Architectural Digest italia and Panorama. Author of Guides and books edited by WhiteStar and Marco Polo
The entrance of Alain Ducasse's new restaurant in Paris
Alain Ducasse on the stage of Identità Milano 2021. All the photos are from Brambilla-Serrani
Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose