26-02-2014
Right, Franco Pepe, pizza master from Caiazzo (Caserta). The photo was not taken in Campania but in Milan, at Princi, on the corner between Via XXV Aprile and Via Pasubio, tel. +39.02.29060832, where Pepe will offer his consultancy. Rocco and Pina Princi have revolutionised and enlarged their point of sale with the ambition of making great Neapolitan pizza, quality dishes and signature cocktails. Open to the public as of Friday February 28th, until 2 at night
The day came when Rocco and Pina Princi from Calabria, in Milan since 1986 («with an initial dowry of 100 thousand lire in their pockets»), after opening 5 shops in Milan over almost 30 years – the first important one, in chronological order, in the very central Via Speronari – and one in London, as of Friday February 28th will open one more, larger than the rest.
It will happen on the corner between Via Pasubio and Piazza XXV Aprile, right in front the old Smeraldo theatre soon to be Eataly Milano (opening on March 18th) in the same point of sale that made this couple from Villa San Giovanni suffer much trouble during the endless works for the underground parking, with 6 years of unbearable drilling in their ears and odysseys in the jungle of bureaucracy. The wind has now changed, and brings revenge against destiny since on Friday February 28th the location will open with 60 extra square metres. And an architectural concept that recalls a restaurant in the Village, rather than one in Porta Garibaldi.
Wide spaces, only a few tables at the entrance, in front of the cocktail bar. On the right, beside the glass-door fridge as tall as a skyscraper, there’s a long corridor occupied by a table to be shared which is as deep, in parallel with the classic Princi-style counter, with pizza, bread, bakery products and pastries to take away. It is right behind there, however, that the big novelty is stirring: a large open view kitchen with cooking stations, a serious pizza oven and a chargrilling station that can reach the highest peaks over an always lively fire made with beech. «I wanted to modernize», Rocco Princi lightens up «the classic concept of restaurant constantly serving pizzas and grilled food». High quality, that is. And so we can get into the details of all the great signatures behind the various sections.
Ettore Princi, son of Rocco, chargrilling
Valentino Russo, 35 years old from Licata, new chef at Princi XXV Aprile
Rocco Princi, from Calabria, in Milan since 28 years ago
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt