06-02-2015
Virgilio Martinez in a photo at Identità Milano 2013, when he held a lecture for Identità Naturali. Two years later, the chef of Central in Lima, who in the meantime became number one in his continent according to the Latin America's 50 best, will return to the Auditorium hall with a lecture on the different altitudes in Peru. On Monday 9th February at 11.30 (photo credits Michele Bella)
Virgilio Martinez is the enfant prodige of Peruvian cuisine and an entire continent. And not just because he recently got to the top of the Latin America’s 50Best Restaurant. We were all charmed by the atypical combination of easygoingness and Stakhanovism, humbleness and skill, lucidity and vision of this guy. «I’m very happy», he writes, «to come and dialogue with Italian chefs, to enjoy your food and tradition: Identità generates a strong impact on the gastronomic scene. More than speaking or cooking my things, I can’t wait to learn from each one of you».
Can you give us a slight preview of your lecture in Milan? I’ll talk about the altitudes of my territory from below 9 meters to 4800 meters above sea level, then about sourcing in the Amazon. The altitudes concept gets a smooth connection with our nature, territory, people, culture... food. Mega diversity has to be approached with an understanding beyond what a cook like me knows. I’ll be talking about the concept of seeing the territory as Altitudes, not as flat geography. Like the way we go and get to connect to the sea then the deserts, then the valleys then you go up in the mountains of the Cordillera de los Andes, and then you go down to Amazonia, the way we use to do it years and years ago. I’ll cook dishes from the different altitudes of Peru. How popular is the health and tasty issue (the main theme of this year's congress) and how is it felt in your cuisine? And by Peruvian and SouthAmerican chefs in general? These issues have everything in common, that’s part of our concern. In my cuisine, over here in Peru, health is important, so are ethics… and taste has to be the motivation too.
Valley between the Andes. Avocado e amaranto. Now on Central menu Credits: Central Comunications-BrickD
Peruvian from Lima, born in 1977, before opening Central in his capital and Lima in London, in Fitzrovia (summer of 2012, the establishment doubled in July 2014 in Covent Garden) he worked in Spain at Can Fabes and as executive chef of Astrid y Gastón in Bogotà and Madrid (photo credits Central)
Is there an aspect of Italian cooking or a chef you particularly admire in Italy? Let’s say a lot of them. I did go to Massimo’s place three times and he came to mine. We have some very special talks, and I truly started to understand Italian passion. He introduced me to Italian energy and explained me how good and unique are Italian cooks, but you Italians are an inspiration, always. When you think of yourself in 2040, what do you see? What would be your dream? Live the present, regarding situations. I may be living in Cusco, the sacred valley with Pia and my kids. My Mater Iniciativa research group will be having its headquarters over there, surrounded by the mountains the Andes and all I love about Peru.
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt