05-09-2017
Riccardo Camanini at Identità Milano 2017 (photo by Brambilla-Serrani)
Our dinner at Riccardo Camanini’s in the photos by Tanio Liotta. We start: instead of the old, boring series of appetizers, a “real” dish: Apple, caprino, basil
Tapioca, orange and arctic char roe
Scorched Fine de Claire Krystale oyster, ginger, hazelnut oil Igp. The pairing of oysters and hazelnuts is sublime (I had already appreciated it at Luigi Taglienti’s): in this case there’s also the magic touch of the ginger
Tartare of perch from Lake Garda, light mayonnaise with fig leaves, toasted sunflower seeds
Double buttons, celeriac, ricotta with lemon, mackerel and anchovy colatura from Cetara
Risotto, ginger, mozzarella water: Camanini is a magician. In this case he uses no butter nor Parmigiano, but nobody notices
Salted codfish tripe, sea snails, rock broth with saffron, chickpeas, basil, dried mandarin leaves. A strong taste, the chef recreates the "other cuisine", it’s a sort of ode to Italian trattoria and its rich flavours. Reassuring
The salted codfish tripe is served with Bruschetta with garlic, pimenton and smoked 'nduja. A tribute to popular cuisine indeed
Veal heart sweetbreads, raw and cold carrots in saor, orange punch, cumin, portulaca and Leopoldo geranium
Dessert: Dark chocolate mousse, cream with Lagavulin 16 years whisky, pan brioche aromatised with orange: memories of a tarte au chocolat
The beautiful Wild strawberries, ricotta from Sicilian sheep, strawberry seed oil and basil. There’s another piece presenting strawberry seed oil, a precious Austrian delicacy: Camanini as chef, Bottura as guest
On a long summer day, Riccardo Camanini happens to read some ancient recipes, and gets excited: «There’s so much talk about eating insects, starting from Redzepi's ants... Bartolomeo Scappi ["The secret cook of Pope Pius V" and author of a treatise on cooking] was already teaching how to cook dormice stuffed with pork!» And how to prepare oxen heads, pigs breasts, duck tongue, crane. But also dishes that are more familiar to us: Quince soup with meat stock, Omelette with sturgeon eggs, Potage of stuffed calamari, Cascio parmiggiano in fettuccie, Sweetbreads pies, Maccaroni alla romanesca… In his Opera di M. Bartolomeo Scappi (1570), Scappi presents a huge heritage of culinary knowledge. Camanini reads it avidly, «it’s an endless cornucopia of stimuli».
The work of M. Bartolomeo Scappi, the secret cook of Pope Pius V (1570)
The staff at Lido 84 - there’s almost everyone. Left from right: Muhammed Zahoor, Ahmed Shakeel, Andrea Puliga, Nicholas Berardi, Aliguettu Billa, Dorde Milinkovic, Gilles Fornoni, chef Riccardo Camanini, Ruggero Majolatesi, Andrea Capasso, sous chef Marco Tacchetto, Giancarlo Camanini dining room manager, Cristian Fermo, Martina Sguerso, pastry chef Federica D’Alpaos, Antonino Scirè and sommelier Manuele Menghini. Babar Shahzad and bread maker Luca Pedersoli were not there (photo by Tanio Liotta)
Again Riccardo Camanini at Identità Milano 2017 (photo by Brambilla-Serrani)
Double buttons, celeriac, ricotta and lemon, mackerel and anchovy colatura from Cetara
I was also struck by the Double buttons, celeriac, ricotta with lemon, mackerel, anchovy colatura from Cetara: one of the best dishes I’ve tasted in a very, very long time. Here’s the complete dinner in the photo gallery by Tanio Liotta. Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief