01-02-2018
My mobile phone rings, on the train to Modena. Another passenger stares at me, and looks a little annoyed. On the iPhone, the name “Massimo Bottura” appears: the chef has found out I’m going to dine at Osteria Francescana. He’s full of adrenalin, as usual, but there’s some extra enthusiasm, and pride: «You’re going to taste my new menu. Almost all of the dishes are new. It will be great. I’m really happy, I think it’s my best tasting menu ever. You must tell me what you think about it afterwards». In theory, this is a bad move: you should never raise expectations. But clearly Bottura is sure of himself.
You need to be tenacious also to reserve a table at Francescana, «the waiting list is almost infinite, 2000 people are waiting». But every effort is largely compensated, if Bottura then offers you such a meal. So here are the photos and captions.
Everything is ready
Aula: fried albarelle with carp ice cream. Lovely
Macaron of rabbit cacciatora and Borlengo with Parmigiano
This is not a sardine: bread wafer with cream of eel. A reference to Magritte
To the left, Homage to Ciro Oliva, we already mentioned this here: Massimo Bottura’s stuzzico dedicated to Ciro Oliva. To the right, Salted codfish and tomato
Corn on the cob: a meringue forms a corn on the cob filled with seabass ceviche and guacamole sauce
Seafood salad
Burnt
Senza titolo (“I am an invisible man”), Glenn Ligon, 1991
Mediterranean sole
Some of Alberto Burri’s plastic combustions, from an exhibition at the Guggenheim in New York
Bottura’s cuisine is evocative, it winks at you, seduces you. It takes history on its shoulders and then throws it on the plate. A thousand constant madeleines of tastes. And this is why it’s extremely fascinating. It speaks Italian, but with references to the arts, to aesthetics. Thus it touches everyone.
Soup of clams from North America
Rice: green on brown on black
Camouflage, Andy Warhol, 1986
Autum in New York
Civet, game, snails, herbs and ravioli
Pigeon camouflage
Tutto, detail, Alighiero Boetti, 1988
Tarte Tatin with duck in the style of Mantua
Game cake
Cherries, amarene, duroni, marasche and dry bread
Tirami-Su
Final cuddles
Is a conclusion necessary? Let’s say that Bottura, more than anyone else, continues a swift intellectual as well as gastronomic work. In his crossover between food and art, he makes food noble by raising it to a representation and language of culture; he thus continues Gualtiero Marchesi’s work. The latter didn’t love him that much: perhaps because he was and is the only one who can match up with him.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief