Majestic Riccioli

There’s a red-haired chef atthe Majestic’s post-La Mantia era in Rome. Massimo Riccioli – the patron atLa Rosetta, an institution among the capital’s great fish restaurants, with a stamp on his passport thanks toCorinthia in London – takes office on the terrace overlooking the Dolce Vita (hotel Majestic is on via Veneto) wearing a brand new uniform and focusing on his strong points: his frankness, his capacity of dialogue with clientele and raw materials, his ease with a setting in which high gastronomy is not ashamed of mixing up with the smart set.

In such a context, after all, it is pointless to pretend un understatement. “Expect the Massimo”, the chef promises smugly in the ads in which signature is given by the typical old style glasses. It’s no surprise that the previous management of this inspiring 19th century place, lasted a few years, was given to the most Grand-Guignolishrepresentative of the Italian chef-system, namely the same Filippo La Mantia who now bestows his charm on tv.Riccioli wants to make a step backward and one ahead. He wants a special place, one in which you can find, once again, the desire to be dressed elegantly, of being a little emotional, of whispering, of lighting a candle hoping that if something had to put it out, it would be the ponentino wind.

The cuisine line needs more focus but is clearly already aiming at La Rosetta’s concept (lots of sea, lots of raw fish) in a version simplified by the multiplication of seats but enriched with a touch of glamour. The first menu of the Massimo Riccioli Ristorante Bistrot is focused on fish, with awell-fit link with the territory and a few meat parenthesis. The sea experience starts with oysters (Marie Morganes,Perle Blanche or Fine de Claire Ronce magnificently described in the menu), served with dark bread and Breton butter.

Then it’s the turn of the raw fish, in a carnival in which Massimo’s show is always among the most brilliant ones: his rectangular dishes, filled with fish from the Tyrrhenian sea – which varies depending on what’s available on the market – are a feast for eyes and palate. And then there’s the fantastic Tuna tartare with caramelised onion and the salads: the Majestic with ovoli mushrooms, scallops and white grapes with must,the one with Grilled octopus with salmoriglio sauceserved with taboulè. First courses are characterised by simplicity: Mezze maniche alla norma withstone bass (Riccioli too is originally from Sicily), the extremely Roman Sea weed with cacio&pepe, the Gnocchi with lamb Genoan-style ragout.

Among the main courses, there’s the Red snapper tagliata with salt and vegetables, the magnificent Sole fillet with lemon and crispy prawn, the Beef entrecote with vanilla aromatised potato puree. The desserts are not adventurous: a Crème brulée with hazelnuts and pistachio, a basic Tiramisù. The wine list is surprising, full of natural wines. For lunch there’s the 30-euro-formula for which you get a starter and a first course or main course. Lots of attention is paid to the bar, which aims at being the lounge of the hotel but also a place for experiments, a workshop: the offer is volcanic and open to all possibilities, from cicchetti (tapas)to champagne, from sandwiches to show-dinners. Because while Rome is the stage, the spotlight always points onvia Veneto. And if you’re there, why not show off with a big smile.