piazza Carignano, 2
Ancient Latins used to say Festina lente: hurry up slowly. Contemplating the creative clock of restaurant Cracco, the temple of Italian avant-garde, we notice him both as the fin of the dolphin and as the heavy chain of an anchor. According to an old tradition, these were the symbols of the wise man conduct. And if Carlo Cracco is great in building concrete and balanced dishes, meditative and neo-classical, the other half is built with the impetuosity and the strength of Matteo Baronetto. One of the best Italian chefs. A magnetic field of waves polarizing sensations to the palate.
Born in 1978, son of Fiat workers in Turin, Matteo is not a chef by vocation or inheritance: kitchen is first of all the running board to mount the seat of his coveted motorbike, in summertime and in the weekends in a pizzeria. Abandoned his accountancy studies, undertaken to please his father, the same wheels led him straight to the Hotel management school in Pinerolo and to Betulla in San Bernardino. The deus ex machina is professor Pautassi, which got him in contact with Gualtiero Marchesi’s sommelier in Erbusco. The meeting with Cracco is not love at first sight, but the chef from Vicenza decided to undertake the adventure of Clivie in Piobesi d'Alba, Piedmont region, with him and Luca Cairo, his first sous-chef.
After 3 years, they found themselves with only two Japanese: «At that time we began talking about avant-garde. Many ideas blossomed there»: the pasta made of fish, mouillette for the Oeuf à la coque, the beginning of a visionary development. In 2001 it’s time for Cracco-Peck restaurant in Milan: an ambitious cuisine supported by stronger equipment and brigades. It’s the perfect stage for dishes that have made history, marked by the signature of his shamanism: Marrow with beans and chocolate, Pasta with marinated egg yolk, the Book of the sea. Without forgetting the pasta chapter, abruptly reopened in 2005, as a result of providential business events: from Spaghetti with sea urchins and coffee to the experiments with the lentiscus resin, with a strong balsamic stench.a new
On April 2014, the great emancipation with the of historical restaurant Del Cambio in Turin. A «meditative, though not too much, cuisine». The beginning of a new great age which still have to be written.
Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini
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Matteo Baronetto and the Risorgimento Room at Del Cambio in Piazza Carignano in Turin. The current course set sail in April 2014
The three men from Disfrutar in Barcelona, who know how to create unique emotions in the kitchen: left to right Eduard Xatruch, Oriol Castro and Mateu Casañas (created from a photo on their website)
Tomato pulp, buffalo milk mozzarella and basil, served at the beginning of the new summer menu at Cracco in Galleria, Milano, debuting on Tuesday 5th of July (photo Zanatta)