Will Goldfarb

Room 4 Dessert

Jalan Sanggingan

Will Goldfarb is one of the most shining golden boys of American pastry. Legend has it that, in 1997, just after graduating in History at Duke University, he was getting on a plane which was going to take him to further his studies on the intellectual properties at the University of Southern California. I say he WAS. Because in actual fact he followed his instinct and jumped on a flight to Paris instead: attracted by the whys and wherefores of sweet science. So he entered the famous Cordon Bleu school. And this was followed by the «memorable» experience in the shop of Gerard Mulot.

From there, a tip south: he crossed the border and ended up at Cibreo, legendary Tuscan trattoria in Florence. While trying to escape the immigration authorities, he somehow ended up in Cataluña, at Ferran Adrià’s Bulli. It was 1999, the year of the third star of Roses: Goldfarb found himself side by side with Albert Adrià. It was a Telluric shock which made him overflow with creativity and inspiration. After about a dozen experiences all over the globe, he returned to New York and wondered whether it might be a good idea to set up his own restaurant. The answer was yes. So the dessert bar Room 4 Dessert was born and turned out to be one of the most original projects in the last decade. Those who ate there remember the Choc'n'awe with great nostalgia: on just one plate, white chocolate cake, chocolate cream, chocolate ice cream and icing sugar. And this was only a brief chapter of an entirely sweet book, from prologue to epilogue. The New Yorker crowned him "prince of pastry" but health problems forced him to close.

He set off globetrotting again, with an experience in Bali. In 2007, it was the turn of Picnick in New York, where he lives: it’s a sandwich bar attentive to ethnic-social emergencies. Then came Willpowder, a range of patisserie products for home and restaurant. Thinking back to the golden years, Goldfarb has written: "Room 4 Dessert is not dead". It will be back.


Has participated in

Identità Milano


Gabriele Zanatta

born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, he's been working as a co-author and coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since the first edition (2007), he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches Cuisine global trends into several institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt