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30-year old Alberto Sparacino is the chef at Il Colombaio in Casole d’Elsa (Siena) and to open his mini-menu for the finals of the fourth edition of Premio Birra Moretti Grand Cru he chose a traditional Tuscan dish, which he then interpreted personally. His dessert, instead, is called Rosso Blu Rosso Bianco
The series of recipes that got to the finals of Premio Birra Moretti Grand Cru 2014 also continues in 2015. On this occasion we return to Tuscany, not only because Alberto Sparacino works near Siena, but most of all because he has opened his mini-menu for the finals with a new interpretation of a regional classic. Here is how he describes his dish. My mini-menu opens with Veal Cibreo. The classic version included entrails (rooster liver, gizzard, crests and wattle) in a stew together with agretti. My version, instead, keeps the liver (the bitter note) cooked as in a Royale, in addition to the heart and kidney included as a meat sauce which add the umami flavour and give the tenaciousness that the dish requires. The brain, which has a creamy texture, is glazed with veal jus. All this is united with the Birra Moretti Radler zabaglione which, because of its acidity, puts the ingredients together and becomes a trait d’union together with the garlic (the sweet note) and the parsley.
Alberto Sparacino, chef at restaurant Il Colombaio (Casole d’Elsa, Siena)
INGREDIENTS For the veal liver Royale 300 g veal liver Salt and pepper 3 eggs 4 egg yolks 70 cl cream Juice of half a lemon 15 cl chicken stock ½ garlic clove For the veal brain 500 g veal brain Salt and pepper water
For the heart and kidneys 200 g heart 200 g kidneys Milk 2 white onions 1 bunch of rosemary and sage Salt and pepper Chicken stock White wine
For the Birra Moretti Radler zabaglione 1 egg yolk 1 bottle of Birra Moretti Radler Salt and pepper Lemon juice
For the garlic cream 4 heads of garlic Milk Cream Salt and pepper
For the parsley cream 1 bunch of parsley Salt and pepper Extra virgin olive oil
For the lemons candied in salt 8 lemons Cooking salt Bay leaves
As a pairing, the chef chose Birra Moretti La Rossa
For the veal brain Spread the brain in acid, salted water for around 6-7 minutes. Cool and then remove the external peel.
For the heart and kidneys Clean the kidneys by soaking them in milk overnight. Sauté the onion and garlic in extra virgin olive oil and once the onion has sweat add herbs, kidneys and heart. Brown on a high heat, then reduce the heat, add the chicken stock and continue to cook for around 2 hours until tender.
For the Birra Moretti Radler zabaglione Put the egg yolk, the salt and the beer into a bowl. Start to whisk and then place on a bain-Marie. Continue to whisk energetically until you obtain a homogenous and smooth cream.
Fro the garlic cream Blanch the garlic cloves (deprived of their heart) in milk for at least six times. Move the cloves into a glass and blend them adding cream and salt to the mixture.
For the parsley cream Blanch the parsley leaves in lots of salted water. Cool in water and ice then drain and dry the leaves carefully. Move to a glass and emulsify with extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt.
For the lemon candied in salt You will need a hermetic container Put the scored lemons in a large tin covering them with cooking salt and bay leaves. Place in a fresh place, away from the sun, for around six months. To finish Brown the brain on a high heat so as to create an external crust. Place the beer zabaglione and the various creams on the dish, in a circle. On top of that, following the drawing, place the brain, the Royale with the heart and kidneys meat sauce. Finish by covering with some veal jus, some bread croutons, and sprouts and the lemon candied in salt.
Born in 1984, since march 2014 is chef de cuisine at Il Colombaio in Casole d’Elsa (Siena)
The recipes and the best moments of the second edition of Premio Birra Moretti Grand Cru