08-09-2014
The rustic décor at La Locandiera in Corso Umberto 194 in Bernalda (Matera), +39.0835.543241, the trattoria-osteria owned by sisters Maria and Clara Gallotta, almost entirely run by women. Maître and sommelier Francesco Russo, son of Maria, is the only man in the staff, which includes sisters Flavia and Mariangela
Bernalda, a town in the area of Matera, between the Ionian coast and Matera itself: an ancient run-down castle and a nice church from the 16th century stand out above the sleepy historical centre made of low houses and ancient noble buildings. If you love gossip and showbiz, however, some synapses may have been touched when reading the name of the place. It is indeed here that in 2011 the weeding of Sofia Coppola, daughter of director Francis Ford Coppola, took place. As he was the grandson of people from Bernalda, he bought the ancient Palazzo Margherita transforming it into a refined country-chic resort. The same style – though played at different levels – can be found at La Locandiera, the trattoria owned by sisters Maria and Clara Gallotta on the main street. The fact it is indeed a trattoria may have some people doubtful, despite the chequered table cloths and the rustic décor, as the different dishes, described by young maître and sommelier Francesco Russo, are being served. He’s the son of Maria and the only man in the staff, which includes sisters Flavia and Mariangela. However – if the prices in the menu were not enough – he straight away disperses any doubts: «”Trattoria” does not strictly mean a cuisine that is not very attentive or a sloppy service. We do not use foie gras or caviar but we select the best local products such as peperoni cruschi [dried peppers], a true oilfield in Basilicata» - so much better than petrol! - «the horse or goat meat, the vegetables, the fish».
Pasta with chickpea cream, dried tomatoes and bread crumbs
Ricotta meatballs with beets and mussels, courgette fritters
La Locandiera corso Umberto, 194 Bernalda (Matera) +39.0835.543241 Average prices: starters 10, first courses 8, main courses 12 and desserts 4 euros Tasting menus: 23, 33 and 43 euros closed on Tuesday, never from June till September
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a journalist born in Naples now living in Rome, she tries to make her three passions meet: eating, travelling and writing