Antonia Klugmann: as always, her lecture at Identità Milano 2023 yesterday was very interesting. All photos are by Brambilla-Serrani
How does one come to conceive of a 'risotto' (non risotto) mixed with rice (uncooked. This, for example, is a whole different technique)), i.e. without butter and Parmigiano, subverting the sacred manuals of Italian cuisine without any subversive intention?
There is nothing in Antonia Klugmann's way of being a cook that does not originate in her own inner world. There is no technique for the sake of technique. Thoughts and gestures are enveloped in the same magma, one generating the other. The final outcome is the result of a pitiless simplification insofar as it leaves behind the cook and her sturm und drang to the advantage - clearly - of the dish and the final interlocutor of a dialogue that begins in places far away from the pass.
Klugmann with Carlo Passera, who moderated the lecture
Antonia Klugmann with her collaborators Gabriele Grana and Pierpaolo Petrone
Postil. In a different room, a little earlier, Marco Ambrosino presented his Pasta mista più pasta fermentata. Again, not an exercise in style but the creative reuse of leftover pasta that becomes a thickening and seasoning ingredient. The intention, in this case, is to cut down on waste. The outcome, otherwise revolutionary.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
A journalist by profession, curious by vocation, she applies her attitude to investigative reports and food features. She's author for Repubblica, Gambero Rosso, Dispensa
All photos are by Brambilla-Serrani
Paolo Marchi’s words representing the Identità Milano 2023 congress. All photos from Brambilla-Serrani