The pandemic has accelerated many trends in the world of cuisine. However, as we restart, the future scene is still undefined. Understanding what awaits us is one of the goals of fine dining congresses, which are about to return. The Identità Golose congress is set for the end of September, from the 25th to the 27th, as Paolo Marchi told us here and Claudio Ceroni here. But before that, there's Madrid Fusión, from the 31st of May to the 2nd of June: it's one of the most awaited and "historic" events, the first edition being in 2003, and it was indeed on the occasion of the second edition that Paolo Marchi and Carlo Cracco met in the Spanish capital and came up with the idea: why not do something similar in Italy? The following year, Identità was born.
But let's go back to Madrid Fusión, which has an important news: participants can now choose between two options, namely going in person to the Ifema, Madrid's trade fair area, or attending the different conferences via a digital platform (you can sign up here). Most of the presentations will focus on a track, Gastronomía Circular, that is to say "circular gastronomy", “freshly picked and freshly cooked cuisine”, the short cycle of products and the use of resources. «Rural and urban world have been connected – says José Carlos Capel, one of the most important culinary critics in Spain, and the president of Madrid Fusión – Even science and technology have proven to be more respectful of nature».
José Carlos Capel
In the meantime, there's one doubt haunting us. If cooking has changed, or is changing, should cooking congresses change too? If so, how? We ask Capel himself: «We have introduced a digital platform, but other than that, Madrid Fusión 2021 will follow the same structure of the previous editions. We've chosen a new theme, this will be the year of Gastronomía Circular, but without changing the order of the classes or the way in which they were developed until now. The format, in other words, is the same. So I don't think there will be big changes in cooking congresses for the time being».
If anything, they aim to include, in the attention paid to research-based cooking. a new focus on liminal aspects. Capel confirms: «Madrid Fusión this year has more expectations than ever. Despite the difficulties of the pandemic, we've managed to widen the topics. On top of the cooking congress, we will hold a big congress on wine - The Wine Edition – with the participation of important professionals from all around the world. At the same time, we have promoted the existing MIP congress dedicated to bread making and desserts. In this edition we will have, in fact, three congresses in one».
Davide Caranchini and Diego Rossi, the Italian guests at the congress in Spain
Some of the speakers: Joan Roca, Maria Solivellas, Eneko Atxa, Fina Puigdevall, Javier Olleros and Rodrigo de la Calle
Josh Niland's lesson at Madrid Fusión in 2020
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief
After the first made in Italy talk given by Davide Caranchini, Diego Rossi presents his vision of circular gastronomy at Madrid Fusión
Caranchini during his lesson on the morning of June the 1st in Madrid (all the photos are from Madrid Fusión)
A photo from The Whole Fish Cookbook, the book from Australian chef Josh Niland where he explains his incredible dry ageing techniques for fresh fish. He did so a few weeks ago at Madrid Fusión. We were there