crediti: Brambilla - Serrani
via Ascanio Sforza, 77
Claudio Sadler is a synonym of solidity: not that he’s a conservative, strictly speaking, a label that would be too tight for his desire to do; but indeed he’s a purist and a cautious innovator. Sadler is from Milan, by birth and by passion, even though his surname is originally from Trentino and his mother is from Friuli. So much so that for him it’s more than natural to offer Italian cuisine in a broader sense, mixing regions in a battle played with Livorno style brodetto fish soup and Milanese ossobuco, Piedmont’s traditional bagnetto giallo sauce and the savoy cabbage soups extrapolated from the glorious cassoela. «I like to take the message of Italian cuisine abroad, with no compromise but with my personal touch», he says, proud of a happy experience in Japan and a more recent one in Beijing.
So let us see these creative cycles. After the school in hotel management two roads take shape in his life: on one side there is Gualtiero Marchesi, a guru of Milanese cuisine; on the other there is the lamented Georges Cogny, who at the time worked in Piacenza. Professional experiences that for 13 years were parallel to his teaching at the Hotel management institute Carlo Porta, an activity he then continued in private courses such as at Q.B. and the recently opened nearby bistrot Quick 'n Chic. «Knowing how to teach means knowing how to learn; the abstract approach has helped me to continue my training from books, and to write my own», he says. «I spent the first decade at Osteria di Porta Cicca: a small inn on the other canal, that bit by bit we transformed in a restaurant, until we were awarded the first Michelin star in 1992. In 1996 we moved to Via Conchetta, where we stayed for 10 more years, receiving the second Michelin star in 2002. The restaurant in is in tune with the characteristics of international restaurants valorising the environment».
It’s his second youth, bringing freshness, deliciousness and bright colours to the plate, sometimes reducing the use of techniques. There are no Iberian nor Japanese contaminations, because «I want to preserve my origins. I truly like to reassure, I prefer a solid dish to a risky idea. Milan is quite a frenzied city and being able to offer a peaceful evening of good cuisine is no mean accomplishment». On the plate, the presentation mixes “order and disorder”, symmetry, randomness and bright colours, because «irregularity is the medium of a personal interpretation, it places the client in a similar condition to that of someone looking at a piece of abstract art».
Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini
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