25-08-2016
Floriano and Giovanni Pellegrino, brothers and chefs at Bros, the restaurant opened in the heart of Lecce on 26th December 2015 and is already acclaimed by critics and public. In the photo, the two guys (a total of 46 years of age) offer an almond non-alcoholic drink served in a typical Starbucks cup at the end of the dinner. A fun way to hint at Salento’s popular habit of drinking and walking (photo by Zanatta)
«Lecce is the centre of the world, not New York, Tokyo or London. Tutti qui hanno benire». Everyone must come here. Born in 1990, Floriano Pellegrino uses Salentino to state the desire leading the Bros «gastronomic criminal conspiracy». The restaurant, a short walk from the amphitheatre in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, shook the Baroque town on the 26th of December 2015. It’s a heliocentric revolution «because it is us, from Lecce, who need to trace the centre of the world», he points out, «and change the mind of all those who are proud to spend 200 euros for a gourmet meal in Milan but then shrug when they have to spend 40 over here, as if we were asking for a piece of family jewellery». Their persuasion strategy, already attracting many young enthusiasts, is typical of enlightened chefs: «think local, act global». In other words it enhances local products with techniques learnt around the world: in the menu, vegetables (their obsession) such as cucummarazzu, spunzale or murthedda immediately stand out, but one can also recognise Redzepian snacks, meetings of chlorophyll and seafood and the chef-presenting-the-dish-in-the-dining-room paradigm typical of the New Nordic Cuisine. As well as chawanmushi-style pudding (fantastic, with mackerel and sea lettuce) and a general Japanese sharp rigour. Not to mention the French approach to cooking meat, bringing back juices in Maillard’s armour, and sending back the roner to the attic «because as chefs we must take on the risk of making mistakes, not use perfect cuts and cooking techniques to attract the Stars».
Spaghettini freddi e pesce al buio [Cold spaghettini and fish “in the dark” as the fish varies according to season. Here there’s squid, smoke eel, prawns, octopus and nori seaweed. A good and engaging Japanese-style dish (photo by Zanatta)
Isabella Potì, pastry chef at Bros, father from Lecce and Polish mother (photo credits, Il Ventre dell'Architetto)
23 May 2016: a few months after the opening, Martin Berasategui (in the photo to the right), cooks at Bros, at his favourite pupils’ place (in the centre, Floriano Pellegrino). To the left, there’s also Joseba Lezama, for 27 years now Martin’s executive chef at Lasarte
In Salento they’re also getting ready for the hunting season and some delicious food will be coming up. The Porro intero, a Bros “classic” recipe made of leek cooked in a miso of fermented cannellini beans will be back. This is a new Salento. «A dream with wide-open eyes», they say, «to be nurtured hanging in there, as Napoleon said, until the last bayonet». Bros Via degli Acaya, 2 Lecce +39.0832.092601 Open for lunch and supper Closed on Tuesdays Average prices: starters 9, first courses 14, main courses 17, desserts 8 euros Tasting menu: 70 euro (8 courses), 25 euro paired with two 2 glasses of wine
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt