01-03-2015
Dutch-Italian chef Eugenio Jacques Christian Boer, after closing the experience with Enocratia and some consultancy jobs, a few weeks ago returned to direct the kitchen of a gourmet restaurant. Essenza, in Via Marghera in Milan (tel. +39.02.4986865) – of which we wrote here. The latter was also one of the restaurants participating in Birra Moretti’s Il piacere in abito da sera. It was on that very occasion that we had the opportunity to taste this splendid dish, perfectly paired with Birra Moretti Grand Cru
This dish is strongly reminiscent of my beautiful experience beside Norbert Niederkofler at St.Hubertus in San Cassiano, in Alta Val Badia. I have balanced the flavours based on the sweet cooking of the arctic char and inspired by the mountains where it lives. I thus needed a good risotto as a base, made fresh with a nice mix of herbs, not too heavy and with a few “special” notes. This is why there’s oil aromatised with ashes and the horseradish is raw. I then needed some crispiness - I found it in the arctic char roe which is sparkling and not too sapid.
Eugenio Boer in his new kitchen
Group photo for the Essenza's staff
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Seven virtues... in just one dish