05-03-2017
Identità di Gelato, third edition at Identità Milano, is a one-way road to quality (in the photo, Moreno Cedroni presents a mix of black cabbage gelato and salted codfish gelato)
Simone Bonini – Back from the future – The future is already the past for the Tuscan founder of Carapina fighting against common places. «A bad cocktail is worst than a kilo of good gelato», he says. Indeed Simone Bonini will soon give up on the gelateria and will start training new gelatieri. Without forsaking new gastronomic experiments in the shape of the gelato he’ll serve in the first “restaurant gelato”. With Grana Padano and Vin Santo. A success, we’re sure
Moreno Cedroni – Gelato with fermented… - From km 0 to the aware km. The experimenter is Moreno Cedroni who adds salted codfish, garlic and salt to milk and cream. And he’s even more daring with the fermented purple cabbage with lemon zest and chilli pepper: an impossible to describe blast of sourness and spiciness; with the black garlic releasing notes of olives and liquorice. A small amount of sugar is instead contained in the mix of kombucha and mono-Arabica coffee in the lightly alcoholic sorbet in which the sourness has a crucial and unsettling role
Paolo Brunelli – Christopher Columbus didn’t like chocolate. That’s how it all began – A step behind in tradition, and one ahead into the future. Paolo Brunelli takes both without risking of acting like a crazy prawn. He recuperates the emotions of traditional Italian chocolate gelato made with powdered cocoa and the futurism of the sorbet made with a sweetened infusion of cocoa beans with acacia honey shaped in a bar of gelato covered in dark chocolate and in a small chocolate served cold, covered in a powder made with what is left of the cocoa bean left in infusion. Tradition must also innovate
Luca De Santi – An endless journey - At Ratanà Luca De Santi found the perfect place to give a home to his idea of pastry making for restaurants. Guided by his mantra – low sugar, low carbohydrates and lightness – there’s nothing that can stop him. So people are no longer surprised by his desserts with beetroot and artichoke. At Identità di Gelato he dared with a salted codfish ice cream placed on a toasted corn cookie, garnished with candied lemons, slices of fresh radish, fried black chickpeas and finished with a celery granita
Diego Crosara – The dark side of freedom for Diego Crosara is both sweet and savoury, in a gelato where you almost can’t tell there’s sugar. The only limit is the technical knowledge that allows you to make a good traditional gelato. Without it, innovation is impossible. Crosara’s acrobatic jump is a gelato with sea urchins made with olive oil, cream and orange juice which becomes the filling for a raviolo made with precooked egg pasta placed on a cream of Jerusalem artichoke. The cooking is completed with hot seafood broth poured when the dish is served to keep the cold-hot contrast. The sandwich with fermented red cabbage gelato is equally interesting. On top of good it’s also healthy. How can you beat that?
Upturning logic, eliminating stereotypes, finding emotions once again, changing perspective. The world of gelato changes its appearance and goes in search of new roads. And some enlightened gelato makers – as well as pastry chefs and chefs - take on a one way route. All this with the strength of the freedom inspiring the 13th edition of Identità Golose and the third of its Identità di Gelato section.
The old gelato making is dying. Killed by common places, by the impossibility of giving a good value to the emulsion of milk and cream now removed of all the qualities of its main ingredients. Every step of the one-way journey of gelato shakes those who threw it into the marshes of the obvious, a discovery for those who love adventurers opening new roads. The new gelato is more than the evolution of gourmet gelato. It’s about its arrival on the tables of the great chefs.
These “constructions” lose their sweetness and find fermented sourness, the unusual saltiness of salted codfish and the flavour of fried black chickpeas. Chocolate is ready to take back the original colour of its beans. In the ravioli you can discover an unexpected and salty heart of soft, icy freshness. The sorbets take back their emotional appeal, in new elegant shapes. A journey no gourmet lover could turn down. (In the gallery, all the speakers and their lessons). Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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A journalist from Catania, now in Milan, she was born in 1966. «I travel, meet people and tell stories on Volevofareilgiornalista» and on numerous other publications
