The Bottura team, the protagonists on the second day at Identità New York. Left to right, Francesco Vincenzi, Karime Lopez, Massimo Bottura, Takahiko Kondo, Jessica Rosval (photo Brambilla/Serrani)
Evolution or revolution? A journey through the dishes of Osteria Francescana, Casa Maria Luigia and Franceschetta 58. This is the title of the tenth lesson (out of 10 editions, see the others at the bottom) from Massimo Bottura at Identità New York, which on this occasion was held on the rooftop of Eataly Flatiron, in the Serra with the open roof and a nice natural light seeping through the autumn trees.
The terrace is packed with people. «I’m so excited I had to take notes this time», the chef from Modena says, waving the piece of paper with the draft of his speech. «This year I wanted to bring with me the chefs who have been working in our team for a long time». Behind him, Takahiko Kondo, sous chef at Osteria Francescana (with Davide Di Fabio); Karime Lopez, cook at Osteria Gucci in Florence, Francesco Vincenzi of Franceschetta 58 and Jessica Rosval of Casa Maria Luigia appear.
«I wanted to have them here because teams are a key point in every job, not just in restaurants. Staying together one year after the other is not something you can give for granted. We are family». They serve the prologue of the three dishes that will be the focus of the lesson. It’s a Smoked fig with Balsamic vinegar and Cheese, a happy finger-food improvisation. «More than anything, we want to nourish with emotions».
Sbrisolona, cotechino, zabaglione, balsamic vinegar. Casa Maria Luigia
Trout with cacciatora chicken, Franceschetta 58
Defending nature, Osteria Francescana
The location of the lesson: the Serra d'Autunno, 14th floor at Eataly Flatiron
With Francesca Lavazza
FINAL CURTAIN.What with an anecdote and the other, we arrive smoothly to the last moments of a speech that lasted one hour and a half. «I’m on this stage for the tenth year in a row. Let me thank Identità Golose: they gave all of us the opportunity to improve, to create a link with this magnificent city, to cook beside the best chefs in the world. We have built a community, and without this we could have not developed the projects we have developed». Last tribute: «Thanks to all the guys at Eataly: in these years you have had the world taste the best products of our country. You’re a cathedral from the 21st century».
7 lessons from Bottura in New York
2018: Culture, contamination, goodness: Massimo Bottura’s 9th time at Identità New York
2017: The entire Bottura-philosophy in just one dish
2016: First: do not waste
2015: White and Bottura: the value of bread
2014: Bottura-Humm: tradition in evolution
2013: Bouloud, quell’uovo è il massimo
2012: l’asse Bottura-Ducasse
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.