Emmanuel Renaut
Peach palm fettuccine Carbonaraby Alex Atala
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Juan Luis Fernández, aka Juanlu, presents an interesting Spanish-French cuisine at Lú Cocina y Alma in Jerez de la Frontera, not far from Cadiz
Spanish cuisine still surprises ("still" meaning even now that the avantgarde has lost its propulsive force) because it can tell a thousand different stories, that share the same technical wisdom, but different from one another in terms of the paths taken. In other words, they are all the result of the creative freedom that was the fundamental lesson sent by elBulli to the world; and they are all aware of the other essential element in that crucial project: dining is a culinary experience, it’s not just about eating good food. So, only in Andalusia, where we travelled recently, we have the Arab-Andalusian cuisine of Paco Morales (see Paco Morales: rediscovering the Arab-Andalusian cuisine of the 14th century); the tri-starred, full, round, but "resigning" cuisine of Dani Garcia (see Goodbye three stars, I want to be happy. And here’s the future of fine dining); the other diamond, that is to say the marine epopee of Ángel León, of whom we will soon write; and then other interpretations, including one that surprised us, both in terms of style and quality: the one of Juan Luis Fernández, aka Juanlu, at Lú Cocina y Alma in Jerez de la Frontera, not far from Cadiz, also in Andalusia.
The beautiful dining rooms
Juanlu with his staff
Here’s a quote from the introduction to the menu:
At Lú Cocina y Alma we’re passionate about seeking, every day, the best products, investigating their origins and understanding every aspect of them. We look for the best milk in France to make our butter; the birds landing on the beautiful land of Bresse; Breton oysters or seafood resting in the rias of Galicia. We look for wild vegetables form the sierra of Cadiz, from La Janda to Grazalema, and for the fresh fish from the sea of Cadiz, from Rota to Tarifa. At Lú we’re in love with classic fine dining; we add an Andalusian touch to the recipes of Careme and Escoffier’s sauces are enclosed in our aromatised butter. At Lú we cook slowly, there’s no haste, and with great passion. We offer three tasting menus, to taste the best products available.
The kitchen is in the middle of the dining room
The chef at work with his sous
Well deserved, indeed. The ambition of Fernández is based on a very interesting concept: «The greatness of a country in the restaurant industry is not so much in its top restaurants, that is to say in those few places at the very top, but in the slightly larger group of restaurants that follow them closely». This is where Lú Cocina y Alma is placed now.
Here’s our dinner, in the photos of Tanio Liotta. And in the meantime, we also recommend the extraordinary maison bread (from mother yeast) and the excellent service and wine pairing, orchestrated by caring and competent Mamen Castelló.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Coquillage. From the top, clockwise: Sea truffles and mousse of jalapeño; Clam from the Pacific Ocean with grenobloise sauce (butter, lemon and capers); Cockle in mignonette sauce (chopped shallot, macerated in wine and red vinegar)
Charcuterie. From the top, clockwise: Crunchy maison pâté, Aged Limoges beef, Brioche malengere
Bun of steamed tuna: delicious, lots of attention to the aromatic contrasts. Hot, sour, sweet
Our version of asparagus and mayonnaise. The mayonnaise is made with oyster, another dish showing very clean flavours
Monkfish Royale, sea urchins and mayonnaise
Monkfish in smoked gazpachuelo (Gazpachuelo is a soup originally from Malaga, Spain, and it’s the typical fishermen’s dish, made with fish stock, and mayonnaise with garlic, egg yolk and olive oil)
Iberian pig, emulsion of green onion and truffle
Mackerel in Bearnaise sauce
Potage Saint-Germain, French classic with dried pulses
Boeuf Bourguignonne, extraordinary dish
Pigeon in Breton sauce (onions/leeks, sugar, salt, mushrooms, mustard, butter). Even too rich
Rabbit royale with grand veneur sauce (red wine, onions, shallot, thyme, bay leaves, flour, vinegar, veal stock, red currant gelatine, butter, olive oil, salt and pepper)
Strawberries and cream
Almond tart soaked in brandy
Hazelnut texture, milk ice cream
Lú Cocina y Alma Calle Zaragoza 2, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain Tel. +34 695 408481 universolu.com/restaurantes/lu-cocina-y-alma Closed on Sunday at lunchtime and the whole day on Monday tasting menu 90, 120 and 150 euros
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief
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