Marco Reitano
Dumplings with squill-fishes, artichokes and sweet potatoby Moreno Cedroni
Dall'Italia Vito Mollica: «Non mi interessa solo il piatto, ma come la ristorazione può cambiare una città»
Alessandra Mauri and Luca Butti in their ice cream shop in Cantù, in the province of Como. They bought it in February 2010. It was already called Nonna Papera [Grandma Duck] a name too nice to change it. Contrary to the Walt Disney character, their Nonna Papera makes ice creams, not apple pie
What a nice surprise on the 22nd of June at Riva1920 in Cantù, when Maurizio Riva opened Museo del Legno for a charity dinner to support Agorà 97, a cooperative with a big heart. Putting aside the dinner organised some time ago thanks to chefs Stefano Fagioli, Roberto Magnani, Paco Magri, Giancarlo Morelli, Davide Oldani, Andrea Ribaldone and Andrea Besuschio, what you noticed when welcomed was the ice cream display among the many lovely savoury items.
And even though cones and cups were planned for the end, after the strawberry dessert by Besuschio, when something is really good you upturn every order and so I started the evening in the way I would later end it: with gelato from Nonna Papera, the ice cream shop of Alessandra Mauri and her husband Luca Butti in Cantù, in Via Borgognone 38, tel. +39.031.4136699.
Some twenty days ago Alessandra presented Lime, ping pepper and peppermint; Peach and amaretto; Granny smith apple and bourbon vanilla from Madagascar; Maracuja, mint and bergamot. A small selection, given the circumstances, four out of the usual 36 flavours they serve in the shop.
Their secret, which wouldn’t be such a secret if most people worked seriously, is that they’re never satisfied. Apart from looking for excellent products and following the seasons, they keep updated, attend courses, they’re curious. Many pay attention to seasons, unfortunately too many just in theory and not in practice. Real shopping that is linked to the moment and not with mediocre products, bought at the right moment and then passed off as something sublime.
In the words on their website, they work «everyday inspired by you [the clients] so as to nourish you, pamper you, surprise you. This is only the beginning of a very long story of love and passion».
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. twitter @oloapmarchi
Storie dal mondo del gelato di qualità