There are no stopwatches or metres, there is no ring and no referee or barbells to lift. Instead, there is a strong jury of 1080 experts from every corner of the globe, divided into 27 groups, who vote on what they consider to be the best restaurants in the world, ten votes each. Twenty years ago, the World's 50 Best Restaurants awarded Thomas Keller's The French Laundry in California, and so it did in 2004. Then El Bulli was first five times, and the same for Copenhagen's Noma, though four at the previous venue, and a fifth at the current one. Double wins also for El Celler de Can Roca of the Roca brothers in Gerona and for Massimo Bottura's Osteria Francescana in Modena; single affirmations finally for Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck in London, Daniel Humm's Eleven Madison Park in New York, Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur in Menton, Geranium by Rasmus Kofoed in Copenhagen and, a fresh affirmation in Valencia, of Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon del Central in Lima.
Pia Leon and Virgilio Martinez on stage at the 50Best 2023. They won on the 20th June in Valencia. Photo David Holbrook
Italian smiles at Valencia 2023. From left Mauro Uliassi, Enrico Crippa and Massimiliano Alajkmo
For those who wonder why Spain, already seven times first with Ferran Adrià and the Roca brothers, is set to claim an eighth next year in Las Vegas in the United States, the answer is simple: because they put aside parochialism and jealousies to walk side by side, united and thus reaffirm, season after season, that their food has no comparison. Innovation or tradition. With them, first comes the nation and then the community. In Italy it’s the exact opposite.
Enrico Bartolini, 85th, is the Italian novelty of the 2023 edition
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
A mouth watering page, published every Sunday in Il Giornale from November 1999 to the autumn of 2010. Stories and personalities that continue to live in this website
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose.