Two evenings and two dinners, five protagonists on Sunday 24th, and as many on Monday 25th in Modena, for the pilot edition of Identità di Fuoco. More emotions and ideas than guests because Lara and Massimo Bottura's Gatto Verde, with chef Jessica Rosval, can seat thirty, so a total of 60. It was not a crowd for sure, but the electricity was real and amplified every spark to shine over Casa Maria Luigia.
There is nothing ordinary about the Canadian chef. When Bottura, between Sunday and Monday, reminded us that there will always be more future in his future it is also because, among the hundreds and hundreds of chefs who have passed through Via Stella and the dozens of chefs who have moulded themselves there, she has a vision that goes ahead in time and scope, encompassing the surrounding space with horizons that are blurred on the horizon.
Those who remember the evolution of the Francescana universe, from the historic street to the open country, remember these words of Bottura: 'It all starts with breakfast with the wood-fired oven. Then, the Sunday brunch, the barbecue and finally, the restaurant. The race begins again,' and Identità di Fuoco is a moment that precedes other moments in the sign of the blazing embers and the pizza oven, but also of the pairing of prawns and scottona beef from the Marche, morsels placed on opposite sides of the fire and slowly caramelised.
Identità di fuoco, first evening on the 24th of September 2023, left to right Niklas Ekstedt, Jessica Rosval and Errico Recanati
Pizza sangue di drago (dragon's blood) by Michele di Già of Osteria Francescana, a three-dough skillet baked in a wood-fired oven, sweet and sour plum sauce, ginger turnip tops, smoked cotechino and hibiscus flowers
Lara Gilmore, microphone in hand, between the mayor of Modena Gian Carlo Muzzarelli and Massimo Bottura
The three chefs of the second evening of Identità di fuoco, Monday 25th of September 2023: Aitor Arregui, Jessica Rosval and Tomaz Kavcic
In between, the Slovenian world of Tomaz Kavcic and the Elkano galaxy, aka Aitor Arregui from Getaria in the Basque Country, first with cocochas, the gorge of cod in double service, grilled and in pil pil sauce, then with Rodaballo, turbot on the embers, one for every four guests, almost in ecstasy.
Barbecued rodaballo, the signature dish of the Elkano restaurant in Getaria in the Basque Country
When you go to that part of the Atlantic, it’s like going in procession. I was afraid they could not repeat that magic, but Aitor is a top professional, capable of going further in the preparation, which is never easy to replicate when away. Two days to fine-tune the collaboration between us at Identità and the world of Bottura, which will have ten more rooms next year at Casa Maria Luigia. It is like lighting a Swedish match. The light will come.
Cielo Mare Terra by Jessica Rosval, charcoal, caviar, raspberry, rose and seawater to close the pilot edition of Identità di Fuoco 2023
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
A mouth watering page, published every Sunday in Il Giornale from November 1999 to the autumn of 2010. Stories and personalities that continue to live in this website
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose.