The world is full of pizzerias, trattorias and restaurants with Italian cuisine or pseudo cuisine. However, one thing is the flag on the door and another is real quality, a concept that is not easy to define because most seek out the stereotypes that define us and which we often do not care about because we consider it everyday food. Why look for an ugly copy when travelling abroad? It makes no sense, not to me at least. But this means the pleasure of tasting innovative Italian cuisine, the fruit of the chef's knowledge and thoughts, as linear and concrete as possible, is amplified when this happens, as was the case on Friday, 21 July, in Paris.
Alessandro Lucassino, born in 1991 in Follinica, Tuscany, chef at the Cucina Mutualité in Paris since 1 January 2023
Crab served in an urchin shell, tomato, estragon and urchin coral
Flambé sardines and pepper panzanella
But this way it’s all very complicated because the usual customers turn up their noses and do not necessarily come back, others instead taste, ask for clarification and are convinced. Then there are the new ones who, intrigued, book and are won over. But there is still a long way to go for a chef who enrolled at Grosseto’s catering school, leaving it after the first three years because the pace of learning was too slow, better to work, better to practice, some seasonal jobs and then five years in a fish restaurant in Follonica, a lot of practice behind the scenes but also the chance to come into contact with the Trattoria Toscana run by Ducasse at Andana, now led by Bartolini.
Smoked aubergine parmigiana
Cod in saffron broth
Two first courses, ravioli and risotto. Ravioli with ricotta, yellow tomato, grapefruit and chinotto that take you in their play on citrus notes and an excellent Risotto with sea lettuce, Taggiasca olives and hazelnuts, made perfect in a play on hazelnut butter, lemon zest and lime, then Barolo vinegar. The catch of the day off the French coast? Cod in saffron broth. The meat? Saddle of lamb, trombetta courgettes, sea fennel and a mix of spices. Details that in both cases amplified the notes of the two main ingredients, making them even more persistent. Desserts that include a new take on tiramisu but overly creamy, and strawberries in an infusion of lavender and verbena, pollen and a granita to top it all off.
Saddle of lamb, trumpet courgette, sea fennel and a mix of spices
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
A mouth watering page, published every Sunday in Il Giornale from November 1999 to the autumn of 2010. Stories and personalities that continue to live in this website
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose.