Three words for the perfect dining room: humbleness, passion, dream

Bottura’s answer at the debate launched by Cantine Ferrari. Reitano’s optimism: «There’s an increasing demand»

09-03-2017
by Sonia Gioia
The debate on the dining room service launched by

The debate on the dining room service launched by Cantine Ferrari at Identità Milano included the participation of Massimo Bottura

Discussing the Art of hospitality. Identità Golose and Cantine Ferrari have placed a big bet on this topic, joining their voices in the hope that the message on the role of the dining room can be clear and strong. As much as possible. «A great dining room service can save a mediocre dish, a great dish will be ruined by a mediocre dining room service»: these are the words of Massimo Bottura, who was asked to speak at the Auditorium as winner of the latest edition of The World's 50 Best Restaurants, joining Umberto Bombana, awarded with the lifetime achievement award by Asia 2017Soren Ledet, director and co-owner at Geranium in Copenhagen, Marco Reitano, sommelier at La Pergola in Rome as well as president of association Noi di Sala, and Maurizio Saccani, operations director at Rocco Forte Hotels. In this case, it was Matteo Lunelli, president at Cantine FerrariWilliam Drew, group editor at The World's 50 Best Restaurants, and of course the host of the congress, Paolo Marchi, who moderated the event.  

Left to right Maurizio Saccani, operations director at Rocco Forte Hotels, Marco Reitano, sommelier at La Pergola in Roma as well as president of Noi di Sala, Matteo Lunelli, president at Cantine Ferrari, Paolo Marchi, William Drew, group editor at The World's 50 Best Restaurants, Massimo Bottura, Umberto Bombana, winner of the Asia 2017 lifetime achievement award, Soren Ledet, director and co-owner at Geranium in Copenhagen

Left to right Maurizio Saccani, operations director at Rocco Forte HotelsMarco Reitano, sommelier at La Pergola in Roma as well as president of Noi di SalaMatteo Lunelli, president at Cantine FerrariPaolo MarchiWilliam Drew, group editor at The World's 50 Best RestaurantsMassimo BotturaUmberto Bombana, winner of the Asia 2017 lifetime achievement award, Soren Ledet, director and co-owner at Geranium in Copenhagen

What is the innate gesture which an aspiring waiter at Francescana must have in order to have access to the dining room?, asked MarchiBottura: «We have people coming from all over the world. Beppe Palmieri and I first of all always ask them who they are. And we ask them to write what they mean by humbleness, passion and dream on a notebook. I’ve read extraordinary things, and I hope to publish a book with their answers, someday. Those answers are a discriminating criterion. The rest you learn through constant dialogue with the kitchen».

Matteo Lunelli’s speech. Read his ideas here: Matteo Lunelli explains the new partnership with Identità. The goal: give value to the dining room

Matteo Lunelli’s speech. Read his ideas here: Matteo Lunelli explains the new partnership with Identità. The goal: give value to the dining room

Are there equally growing expectations regarding the dining room in Asia too? According to Umberto Bombana (the only three-starred Italian chef abroad, until the recent success of Paolo Casagrande) the answer is yes: «What’s most important is that when you arrive at the restaurant you must see a person, not a waiter. A point of reference, a source of wellbeing. If clients are enjoying themselves, they’ll accept even a few flaws in the food ».

Marco Reitano shared words full of optimism: «There’s a growing demand –announced the president of Noi di Sala – Of course, the applying staff often has fragmentary experience and a light attitude that cannot belong to our profession, which is hard work. You need two-three years of training before becoming a team member. And there’s a principle that must get to our heart: the most important person in a restaurant is not the chef nor the waiter, it’s the client».

Maurizio Saccani launched an alarm: «We’re facing a great revolution, the same that placed the client at the heart of hotellerie in the early 20th century. With a difference. Guests today are much more informed. They’re not looking for commodities, they’re looking for an experience. They want to discover the culture of a place. Therefore, they require interaction at all levels. And the first person they ask from is the floor waitress».
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso


SEE ALSOCantine Ferrari with Identità? Here’s why, by Carlo Passera


Sections

Primo piano

The events you cannot miss and all the news of topical interest from the food planet