10-02-2015
The morning in the Auditorium hall at Identità Milano on day 3 sets the lights on the great protagonists of Venetian cuisine. Left to right, Carlo Cracco (Vicenza), Lorenzo Cogo of El Coq in Marano Vicentino (Vi), Giorgio Damini of Damini e Affini (Arzignano, Vicenza), Lionello Cera of Antica Osteria Cera in Campagna Lupia (Venezia) and Giancarlo Perbellini of Casa Perbellini (Verona). Photo credits Brambilla/Serrani. Translation by Slawka G. Scarso
You again. The day dedicated to Veneto was opened by Carlo Cracco, chef from Vicenza now adopted by Milan. He pointed the flowers of the fiolaro broccoli, that is to say the fetish vegetables in his cuisine, as a flag over the congress. The perfect chance to illustrate some anecdotes on a poor ingredient that was glorified by Gino Veronelli.
The baton, within the congress and the cuisine of Vicenza, was swiftly passed to Lorenzo Cogo, the enfant prodige of Italian avantgarde. He interpreted the theme of the congress, a healthy intelligence, as a post-dinner. Lightness and digestibility, that is, with the help of a nutritionist. “The chef needs to translate scientific achievements into dishes, educate the client to what is good”, the doctor fed him. So here are 3 “instructions” in the shape of as many dishes. Ravioli with capon from Marano Vicentino with pistachios from Bronte dipped in red wine vinegar, following the model of the cold rice for sushi, with the sagebrush in the end inducing to chew, pre-digesting the food and averting obesity but also tasting flavours better, with countless benefits. This was followed by a second tortello with dog-rose from the surrounding mountains, a pre-dessert following Nadia Santini’s sweet pumpkin example, prepared with buttermilk, thus a fermented and healthy product, and mostarda from Vicenza and Grana. And again a dessert in continuity with the savoury flavour: cauliflower and white chocolate cream with chanterelle mushroom ice cream, a meringue made with rice germ and bianchetto truffle. Conceived to optimise the passage through the intestine and propitiate the sense of fullness through insulin and tryptophan.
Carlo Cracco and his broccolo fiolaro
THE GREAT LAGOON. Lionello Cera
THE INTELLINGENCE OF MEAT. Giorgio and Gian Pieto Damini from Arzignano
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Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini