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Himanshu Saini, 34, from New Delhi in India, chef at Trèsind Studio, Indian fine dining restaurant in Dubai
Of the Indian chef Himanshu Saini Gabriele Zanatta has already written a few months ago (see: My name is Himanshu and I work to give Indian cuisine the role it deserves ). Thirty-four, originally from New Delhi, Saini now signs the food offer of three establishments in Dubai: Carnival, the fun dining restaurant in the financial centre; Trèsind, on the second floor of the Voco Hotel; Trèsind Studio, a small fine dining restaurant and the treasure chest of Himanshu's dreams.
His cuisine, quoting Zanatta, is «a colourful vocabulary of specialties from Punjab to Tamil Nadu, from north to south. Pani puri, khakra, ghee, rasam, chaat, poppadum… Recipes in which the incredible selection of spices plays as a substitute for salt, a builder of sapidity that gives structure and deliciousness to vegetables and sauces».
Himanshu, your menu tells us, from the first bite, about your passion for India's culinary culture. How did this passion begin? I was born in one of the most ancient neighbourhoods of Delhi and any Indian will tell you that food is a crucial part of those places. Street food, intense flavours, colours, rites connected to cooking: growing there allowed me to understand how rich and important this culture is, and ever since I was a child I felt an interest in food grow in me. To this day, in what I cook, there's a very strong connection with those traditions, with that way of cooking and presenting street food, even though our take is more elegant and contemporary. And steers away from stereotypes.
Bao with pumpkin, coriander pesto Steamed bao filled with sweet and sour pumpkin purée served with a pesto of coriander chutney
Salad – Shiso Khakra, mousse of yogurt, raw mango chutney, fresh herbs Papadum with shiso leaf, with yogurt, raw mango chutney and fresh herbs
There's a real contemporary feel in Himanshu Saini's take on cuisine, in the lightness and immediate simplicity with which he enhances his culinary roots, mixing them at the same time with other influences. We await him again soon in Milan to continue our chat.
Soup – Chicken Ravioli, broth of lentils and tomato Essence of tomato di pomodoro cooked with lentils from black lentils fermented with cloves, cardamom, fenugreek and coriander seeds, served with chicken ravioli
Roasted lobster with ghee, burnt cinnamon Lobster cooked in a blend of Southern spices like star anise, wild fennel, black pepper, dried chilli pepper, served with a burnt cinnamon stick
Slow-cooked Lamb Pie, mousse of potato purée, pea pods A crispy pie filled with slow-cooked lamb, seasoned with 16 different spices
Coffee coral, ice cream of miso caramel, chocolate ganache A filtered coffee rose presented like a cone
Journalist, based in Milan. At 8 years old, he received a Springsteen record as a gift, and nothing was the same since. Music and food are his passions. Author and broadcaster at Radio Popolare since 1997, since 2014 he became part of the staff of Identità Golose
Himanshu Saini, chef at Trèsind Studio in Dubai (UAE, one Michelin star) and a signature dish from his tasting menu 'Tasting India' (Banana, raw and ripened, served on a miso chilli tartlet with yellow peppers, smoked tomato chutney and balsamic vinegar)
Giulia Sgarbi, Izu Ani, Raz Rahav, Tala Bashmi, Moustafa Elrefaey, Will Goldfarb, Kamal Mouzawak and William Reed, the protagonists of the first edition of the MENA's 50Best, in Abu Dhabi, in the Arab Emirates. The winner? We'll find out on Tuesday
Himanshu Saini, 34, from New Delhi in India, is the chef at Trèsind Studio, Indian fine dining restaurant in Dubai (photo Thomas Barker)
Tales and photos from the first International Hub of Gastronomy in Via Romagnosi, 3 in Milan