Towards the Congress: four new protagonists at Identità Milano 2021

Only a few days to go until the doors of the MiCo – Milano Congressi in Via Gattamelata will open, launching the much awaited International Chef Congress scheduled from the 25th to the 27th of September (here is the complete programme of Identità Milano 2021). In this rich edition, there will be many new entries among the speakers. Together with many others, they will spur the discussion on this year's theme Building a new future: work.

FRANCESCA CASTIGNANI of Pasticceria Belle Hélène, Tarquinia (Viterbo)
Italiana Contemporary Pastry Making (in partnership with Petra® Molino Quaglia and Valrhona), Sunday 26th September at 3,30 pm

Born in Tarnquinia in 1982, in 2010 Francesca Castignani opened in the same town pastry shop Belle Hélène with her husband Enrico, an experienced maître who trained both in starred restaurants in Italy and abroad.

It all began with Francesca's dream of becoming a pastry chef. After her studies, the real training was the experience she acquired working in some of the most prestigious brigades in the world: starting with La Pergola and Heinz Beck at Rome Cavalieri, 3 Michelin stars. She was in charge of starters until Heinz handed her the task of making desserts. This was followed by a trip to France, and what was meant to be an internship with Pierre Hermé turned into an opportunity: from pastry commis, Francesca became chef de partie. Hermé had such a great opinion of her that he says she's the best decorator of modern pastry making, the only woman to be awarded with 3 Cakes by the Guida Pasticceri e Pasticcerie del Gambero Rosso. Francesca then moved to London and refined her talent at La Delicatessen, and then at La Bottega del Sole, until she returned to Italy, to Prato, working with Luca Mannori at Pasticceria Mannori. But her heart beats in one direction only, where she wants to root her art, and hence she finally arrives in her hometown: Tarquinia. The pastry chef from Belle Hélène, whose name is a tribute to the famous French cake made with chocolate and pears, but also to her aunt Elena, is the temple in which Francesca gives shape to her idea of sweetness, bringing in every creation the goodness of the surrounding area in Lazio, and interpreting through French techniques the heritage of local recipe books and of the family recipes. An example? The crostatina with ricotta, chocolate drops, and alchermes which evolves in the hands of one of the greatest interpreters of sweets in Italy.

FRANCESCO POMPETTI of Impastatori Pompetti (ex Tropicaldue), Roseto degli Abruzzi (Teramo)
The Future is Now, Sunday 26th September at 12,30

Francesco Pompetti, born in Abruzzo in 1993, is a young talent of pizza and dough is the tangible fabric of a family history, a restaurant dynasty that will soon celebrate 4 decades of life and taste. Today's Impastatori Pompetti is, indeed, the evolution of the already famous Tropicaldue – restaurant-cum-pizzeria – and before that locanda “Magnacicc”, the family's nickname. And, though he has an inclination for change, which is in fact research, the study of techniques and the constant creation of new recipes, Francesco doesn't change the strongly familiar structure of his kingdom as the main role in the dining room is taken by his brother Samuele. We're in Roseto degli Abruzzi, in the province of Teramo, and this is where young Pompetti was born. He attended the catering school in Giulianova and, right after that, continued his training first in the brigade of Mauro Uliassi, and then at Marchesi's Accademia, until he perfected his knowledge by working closely with flour and dough in the workshop of a master baker from the Marche, Giuliano Pediconi. A journey he always refers to in the present, because the beginning of every tasting menu is a slice of bread and oil; and then there's Abruzzo – arrosticini, cacio e ova – and lots of seafood, so much so that he adds plankton to his dough, for instance in the pizza dedicated to Mauro Uliassi, topped with squid tagliatelle, sea urchin granita and dried seaweeds. Many professional friendships enrich the list with signature pizzas, such as Mauro Colagreco, Davide Di Fabio (ex sous-chef of Massimo Bottura, now chef at Dalla Gioconda), and of young peers like Gianni Dezio (Tosto, Trani) or Enzo Di Pasquale (Bistrot 900, Giulianova). But Francesco, honours tradition too, through local raw materials. His curiosity is unstoppable with regards to dough, sourdough which is life (and alive); he refines hydrolysis and experiments with natural fermentations leaving the yeast to create itself, starting from unusual elements: this is the case, for instance, with Consistenze di Margherita.
In this case the dough uses the fermentation of tomato water. What's typical of his pizzas? They melt in your mouth and they're fragrant; they're light. And don't miss the typical holiday cakes!

JOE BASTIANICH, Bastianich Hospitality Group
Building a new future: work, Saturday 25th September, at 5,00 pm

Music, television, wine, books and lots of good food. Joe Bastianich is unquestionably one of the most multifaceted and successful entrepreneurs of our times. Italian-American, he was born in New York on the 17th of September 1968 and since he was a child he worked in the Italian restaurant of his parents, Lidia and Felice, in Queens. Even then he knew that real success is made of hard work and commitment, so he started by washing dishes, cleaning sidewalks, and making his way in the jungle of the meat market in Bronx. A road uphill which he walked with decision, and which led him to become one of the most important restaurateurs in America, as well as the author of books awarded by the New York Times and a successful TV personality. Joe and his business partners are now at the helm of over two dozen acclaimed restaurants around the world. From Becco, opened in 1993 in New York, to Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca, Del Posto, Casa Mono & Bar Jamon, Lupa Osteria Romana – always in New York – and many more, not forgetting his Italian heritage with Orsone in Cividale del Friuli. In 2010 they partnered with Oscar Farinetti to bring Eataly, the largest food and wine store, to New York, later developing branches also in North and South America, in Chicago, São Paolo, at the World Trade Center, in Boston and more recently in Los Angeles. Among the latest accomplishments, a video-course called Metodo Bastianich, in which he makes his experience and secrets available for restaurateurs, professionals, and those who dream of an entrepreneurial career in the F&B. This course features many other industry professionals such as Oscar Farinetti, Massimo Bottura, Marco Reitano, Cristina Bowerman, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Umberto Montano.

 

ROBERTA CERETTO, Piazza Duomo, Alba
Identità di Sala, Sunday 26th September at 10,30 am

Roberta Ceretto is the president and communication manager at Azienda Vitivinicola Ceretto, whose name is tightly linked to the success of Barolo. Made in Italy, a love for territory, sustainability and art are the keywords of this winery born in 1930, and now a synonym of great wines from the Langhe around the world. And then there's fine dining, given that the Cerettos together with chef Enrico Crippa, are the founders of restaurant Piazza Duomo, three Michelin stars in Alba. Not forgetting contemporary art, on the hills of the Langhe – the chapel in Barolo designed by Sol LeWitt and David Tremlett is now one of the local emblems. Roberta was one of the most enthusiastic promoters of a journey that brought the Ceretto winery to become a more and more sustainable farm in terms of environment and agriculture, so much so that their production has been organic since 2015. Between 2004 and 2007 Roberta was Councillor in the Consorzio del Barolo e Barbaresco and from 2005 to 2008 she was Vice President of the Gruppo Giovani di Confindustria di Cuneo.

 

Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso