16-07-2020
Massimo Bottura with daughter Alexa depicted by João Fazenda in April on the cover of New Yorker. Their web show Kitchen Quarantine won Webby Awards; video maker Alexa got the idea, and it went online every day at 8 pm on the chef’s Instagram account
Lots of smiles and the foot on the most important gas pedal, the one of ideas: this is reopening in Modena, through the eyes and the unrestrained creativity of Massimo Bottura. He told of his post-lockdown phase a few days ago, during the second Identità di Sala webinar, titled “Rebirth: first steps”, organised as usual by Identità Golose and Cantine Ferrari. The chef from Modena was one of the speakers.
Smiles and gas pedals, we were saying: the second element recalls Bottura’s new venture, running iconic restaurant Cavallino in Maranello, «right in front of the Ferrari headquarters – he said. – It’s the old place where engineer Enzo Ferrari would go every Sunday to watch the car races». It will be reborn with Massimo, «during the lockdown, we would have a call with the guys at Ferrari every Thursday, so that the project could proceed. We finished on the day before reopening. Now it’s time for the renovations. We think we’ll manage to open in March». What kind of place will it be? Bottura had already explained: «We will present a profoundly traditional cuisine, but without it ever being nostalgic: my dream is to see the employees at Ferrari come to Cavallino to celebrate their most important occasions». The experience we’ve designed will be memorable, in such a unique place. Bottura: «I told John Elkann: "Ohhhh, old guy! The project is fine, I don’t want any fee, but you must do something for me: get the best car you have ready for me, I mean at least an 800 horsepower, and we put it in the tracks behind the restaurant. Those who will come to lunch or dinner will be able to try it out". He accepted with enthusiasm». Dynamic summary: «Done! Done! Done!».
A photo at Cavallino with Enzo Ferrari, Niki Lauda and Luca di Montezemolo in 1974
Bottura with John Elkann. The chef says: «The idea of Cavallino comes from a long friendship with Sergio Marchionne and John Elkann, with whom we often discussed synergies between winning brands, a pairing from which the entire area could benefit. This project is born firstly from a deep relationship between people who enjoyed spending time together, from long conversations in which one could develop territorial marketing by connecting the marvels of our land. In the end, the project was born»
«It’s no longe time to cry is over. This phase may be dark but creative minds must come into the open, bring out the best and set a good example, offer models, so as to help the many young people whom I see in difficulty. We must draw them with the strength of enthusiasm and ideas, create formats through our creativity that can be useful for everyone. »
He’s speeding up, indeed. And he smiles. «There’s a saying I love: "smiling with your eyes". Take hospitality from behind a mask. The first service we offered after the lockdown was on the 26th of May, at Casa Maria Luigia, an aperitif for a person celebrating their birthday outside. Of course, we were very worried. At one point one of the guests approached my staff and told them: "It’s beautiful to see you smiling with your eyes". It was the joy of being there, of going back to sharing and hosting. Only with their eyes, of course; but you can communicate everything with your eyes. Here at home I have an artwork by Iranian artist Shirin Neshat. It portrays the eyes of women in Muslim countries, where they wear a veil. Eyes that become a crucial tool to speak, to convey something. See, I think that this "smiling with your eyes" is crucial, and even more so now».
The eyes of women, in a photo by Shirin Neshat
Bottura during the Identità di Sala webinar
Osteria Gucci on Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Los Angeles. The format will now open in Tokyo too
Bottura and JR at Refettorio in Paris
Two final thoughts. The first: «I love how in the fine dining in the finest hotels is no longer just French, but also Italian, and in general of everyone, of great chefs, regardless of their origin». The second, for Matteo Lunelli at the end of the webinar: «The other day Andrea Agnelli was at Francescana. He drank Giulio Ferrari Rosé. A fantastic, extraordinary sip». Hurray for Italy.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief