Baldassarre revives the Carlyle

Having closed the experience at Unico, the chef from Abruzzo opens a new chapter in Brera

02-04-2014
Fabio Baldassarre outside the Carlyle Brera hotel,

Fabio Baldassarre outside the Carlyle Brera hotel, his new place of work after having led restaurant Unico to a Michelin star. There are two offers available: a gourmet restaurant, open from Tuesdays to Saturdays at lunch and supper, and a bistro with informal dishes served daily from noon to midnight. Tel. +39.02.29003888

There’s a high cuisine relocation taking place in Milan. Having closed the experience at Unico, the panoramic restaurant on top of the World Join Center skyscraper, Fabio Baldassarre starts a new activity with new energy at the Carlyle Brera hotel. After the success of the temporary restaurants organised by wine&food journalist and artistic director of the establishment, Fabiano Guatteri, the moment has come for a "final choice".

Two offers will be available: a gourmet restaurant, open from Tuesdays to Saturdays, at lunch and supper, and a bistro, with informal dishes served daily from noon to midnight. The menu is seasonal and focuses on high quality regional ingredients.

[[ ima2 ]]"I met Fabio in January 2014 and it was a revelation – explains Emanuele Vitrano, owner and general manager of the Carlyle Brera hotel -. I was struck by the fact he’s an anti-television chef, with zero image and lots of substance. He’s a concrete person, he doesn’t speak, he makes. I liked him right from the start. I always had a passion for restaurants because my father, in the Sixties, used to have a restaurant in Palermo - Al Cassaro – and I grew up watching chefs at work in the kitchen. I want the restaurant to return to be the heart of the hotel, so we needed a winning horse. And we found it".

The setting is pleasant, with suffused lighting, an orchid garden – the plants fall from the ceiling – and a view of Corso Garibaldi. "For me it is a new beginning, it is nice to return to the centre of Milan, I like the idea of being in the heart of Brera, in a road with many people walking by – says Fabio Baldassarre -. I want to have fun in the kitchen, now I’m here, without limiting myself. In the bistro people will be able to eat mozzarella in carrozza or meatballs, cured meats or tagliata, and also ceviche or a classic fried rice (al salto). In the restaurant on the first floor, instead, I will offer a more emotional cuisine. There will only be 30 seats because I want to stay in the dining room, speak with the clients, get to know them and get them to know me. Milan is a beautiful town because it is a place where people meet, where it is easy to make friends. I really feel at home".

[[ ima3 ]]The dishes represent a journey through Italian typical produce: going from the Fassona beef tartare with broad beans and shaved parmesan, to the Carnaroli yellow risotto with white asparagus braised with nebbiolo, from the Spaghetti cacio e pepe to the Veal sweetbreads with goat cheese. There are also dishes dedicated to vegetarians, such as the Steamed green asparagus au gratin, and to those suffering from celiac disease, such as the Gluten-free taglioni with fried vegetables and stripes of egg frittata. For those who prefer to stay light, the restaurant offers salt-free and fat-free dishes: Steamed white asparagus, parmesan and soft egg and Warm turbot with peas and almonds with curry.

There’s more news to come: in August, renovations will start and a crystal staircase will lead from outside directly to the restaurant, creating a dedicated entrance that will be accessible right from Corso Garibaldi.

Fabio Baldassarre
Carlyle Brera hotel
Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, 84
Milan
+39.02.63471448
Average restaurant prices: starters 23, first courses 20, main courses 30 euros
Bistro prices: 8/20 euros

Potato gnocchi with caviar sauce and asparagus cre

Potato gnocchi with caviar sauce and asparagus cream


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