How about some ice cream in London? Sure—but then it had better be special, unforgettable, the kind you talk about for days. We’ve found it, and we want to tell you all about it, because if you find yourself in the British capital, we really recommend you try it. Just come on an empty stomach, because we’re talking about the now-legendary Knickerbocker Glory at Dovetale, located inside the modern, elegant, and ultra-sustainable 1 Hotel Mayfair. The restaurant, like the hotel itself, is beautiful—informal yet refined. The kitchen is under the guidance of Tom Sellers (2 stars at Story, also in London), with Tom Anglesea as executive chef: the menu features British classics with Mediterranean influences, always following seasonal availability.
We’ve been there often and can vouch for the quality and flavor, from breakfast (don’t miss the bagels with avocado and eggs) to dinner (where excellent fresh pasta and dairy sit alongside Grilled Herdwick lamb cutlets and Cornish sea bass baked in salt). In the dining room, you’ll truly feel at ease: service is warm and professional, skilfully managed by fellow Italian Gianfilippo Pellicoro, the general manager. When it’s finally time for dessert, we hope your Knickerbocker Glory will be prepared by Matt O’Connor, head maître, who adds a special touch of charm to the experience.
But what exactly is this dessert? To call it simply “ice cream” would be an understatement. The name—a bit of a tongue-twister for us Italians—has New York origins (apparently inspired by the hotel where it was first “invented”) and describes an “over-the-top” version of the sundae, a mega ice cream cup with multiple flavors.
Another – one of countless – versions of Dovetale’s Knickerbocker Glory
In addition to having its own dedicated web page on the
Dovetale site, the
Knickerbocker Glory also has its own menu: armed with paper and pen, you choose the various layers that will make up your cup. You start from the base (which might include pistachio praline and salted caramel, for example), then pick your first ice cream flavor—season-dependent, of course. There’s usually an excellent lemon-scented vanilla, one of our favorites, plus dark chocolate and a choice of sorbets and creams. Between the two ice cream layers, you add another element, such as macerated strawberries for a touch of freshness, or crispy waffle cubes.
Then comes the final flourish: rainbow sprinkles, caramel pearls, or popping candy, before topping with whipped cream and a wafer. The most captivating part is that the Knickerbocker Glory is prepared right in the dining room, tableside, from ice cream carts custom-made for Dovetale by a London design studio (the same that also designed the interior of the Virgin Galactic spaceship!). The two carts—named Apollo 11 and Apollo 13—are reminiscent of days gone by, with brass details and ivory and blush-pink colors, just like those that characterized New York’s Knickerbocker Hotel in the 1920s. You’ll see them moving around the restaurant according to orders, and if you’re lucky, you might even be invited to join the staff in assembling your sundae. Kids love it, but we admit, grown-ups are pretty happy to take part too.
New for summer 2025: one of the two carts will be “adults only”—the concept is similar, but instead of the mega ice cream sundae, they’ll be serving frozen margaritas with a wide choice of fruits, flavors, and aromas.
